ACROSS THE NORTH SEA

Conventional wisdom says sleeping in the V-berth while offshore is a bad idea. It can be like a diabolical amusement ride that tosses a sailor to and fro, inducing stomach-churning weightlessness. And yet, here I am, nestled in the tilted corner created by my berth and the teak-battened hull. We’re close-hauled on a flat sea in a moderate breeze and heeled over maybe 10 degrees. The bow wave, just inches from my head, makes a whoosh, gurgle, gurgle sound that loops over and over putting me in a hypnotic state. I feel the cool rush from outside against my face while the rest of me is snug in my sleeping bag. It’s sublime, for now. This the North Sea after all.

I’m aboard Isbjörn, a 1972 Swan 48, owned by Andy Schell and Mia Karlsson of the 59 Degrees North charter company. I’m one of four crew on an expedition that started 12 days ago in Oban, Scotland, bound for Marstrand, Sweden. We are now on the last leg of the trip, and my watch is four hours away, allowing me plenty of time to ponder the joys of the trip so far.

MEETING THE SHIP

I arrived in Oban a couple days before our departure to adjust to the time difference. The train ride from Glasgow gave me a taste of the rugged Scottish Highlands. Dense forests, misty lochs and lone castles set the stage for the weeks to come. This is an ancient land whose inhabitants are a special breed of legendary brave hearts. When I stepped off the train, I was met by a group of young bagpipers performing in the town square. These were a dozen or more kids who undoubtedly took time away from their iPhones to follow tradition. Their sound was infectious and stirring. If it weren’t for the damp