Cookbook of the Week: 'Hawker Fare' by James Syhabout
by Amy Scattergood, Los Angeles Times
Apr 23, 2018
4 minutes
Cookbook of the week: "Hawker Fare: Stories and Recipes From a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai and Lao Roots" by James Syhabout with John Birdsall (Ecco, $39.99)
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Most chefs with Michelin-starred restaurants, plus a classical training and the resume to go with it, would pour all that fancy stuff into their debut cookbook. Glossy cover. Art house photography of white tablecloth dishes and, well, tablecloths. Anecdotes from world-class kitchens. Recipes one's from own world-class kitchen. Not James Syhabout, whose restaurant Commis is the only restaurant in Oakland, Calif., with a Michelin star and who is a veteran of Manresa, the Fat Duck, Coi, Mugaritz and El Bulli
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