Joyce Hoffman, 71
I think surfing can get better with age. I probably love it more now than I did when I was 18, even though I’m not able to surf the way I used to.
In the ‘60s, there were so few people surfing that you almost always knew everyone out in the lineup. It was way more laid back. It was what you would consider the ideal of what surfing is and could be. I’d go back to my 40-pound, 9-foot Terry Martin board if I could have Trestles
