Surfer

Nat Young ,69

1966 World Champion

New South Wales, Australia

“The great thing about surfing is, we are riding nature and nature changes.”

Competition can take some of the The early ’60s were all about having fun. There was no sort of competition involved and surfing was a really social thing. We were competing with ourselves because we wanted to get better, but no one was saying “I’m better than you” or “I’m going to win this contest.”

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