Everand Logo

Welcome to Everand!

  • Surfer

    RIDER ON THE SLAB

    May 16, 2017 4 minutes
    Source: Albee Layer, digging into a wave of mutant proportions.

    SD:After getting skunked the first day here, my morale went from a 10 to a 1 in about a 10-minute period. I had the highest hopes ever for this trip, and then next thing I know, I was like, “It’s all a bust. This trip’s going to be a complete wash.”

    AL:The best part was when we paddled out at Blood Eagle for the first time and realized that it was actually a wave. Before, we were just like, “Oh well, let’s just try it and see if it’s rideable.”

    We just thought it was going to be OK, but then that first wave was a slabbing pit that just blew its guts out. I

    You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

    More from Surfer

    Surfer13 min read
    Warriors Of The Bight
    “WE WON.” The text message was to the point. “WON WHAT?” I replied. It was early morning. “THE BIGHT. THE NORWEGIANS HAVE FUCKED OFF.” The message from my surfing associate down in the Great Australian Bight took a minute to sink in. Huge if true. Ha
    Surfer1 min readPsychology
    The Greatest Escape
    Talk to virtually any mental health expert and they’ll bring up two of the easiest things to do to boost optimism, reduce stress and anxiety, and alleviate depression: Get outdoors and get some exercise. It’s really that simple. Surfing can be your t
    Surfer4 min read
    The Art of Being Seen
    Many surfers fetishize the past. We look at photos of uncrowded Malibu in the ‘50s, the Rincon cove before it was fronted by a six-lane highway, and think, “Yep, those were the days.” Even those of us who weren’t actually alive then—probably especial

    Related Books & Audiobooks