Lisa Andersen, 48
by As told to ASHTYN DOUGLAS
May 16, 2017
3 minutes
“Young girls have options to follow this hero or that hero since there are so many women who rip now.”
Surfing is a way to be free. When I was a teenager, surfing was life or death. It kind of separated me from reality, and I didn’t want to face some things that were happening at home or in my life. I discovered surfing and it was like, “Wow, no one can even get at me when I’m in the ocean.”
but that place has so
You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.
Start your free 30 days