Travel Guide Best Bike Rides France

By Ashley Parsons, Quentin Boehm, Christopher Cooley and 3 more

Lonely Planet's Best Bike Rides France is your passport to 40 day trips on two wheels. Use pedal power to see a destination through a new lens by picking a ride that works for you, from just a couple of hours to a full day, from easy to hard. From rail trails to coastal pathways we cover the country with easy-to-follow trails for cyclists and E-bike riders.

Inside Lonely Planet's Best Bike Rides FranceTravel Guide:

Colour maps (including elevation charts) and images throughout

Special features - on Italy's highlights for cyclist, kid-friendly rides, accessible trails and what to take
Our Picks… section helps you plan your trip and select rides that appeal to your interests
Region profiles cover when to go, where to stay, what's on, cultural insights, and local food and drink recommendations to refuel and refresh. Featured regions include:
The Pyrenees; the French Alps and the Jura Mountains; Provence; Central France; Corsica; Lille, Flanders and the Somme; Brittany and Normandy; Languedoc-Roussillon

Essential info at your fingertips - ride itineraries accompanied by illustrative maps are combined with details about ride duration, distance, terrain, start/end locations (including bike rental options) and difficulty (classified as easy, easy-moderate, moderate, moderate-hard, or hard)

Over 50 maps

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet's Best Bike Rides France, our most comprehensive guide to riding in France, is perfect for those planning to explore France on two wheels.

Looking for more information on Italy? Check out Lonely Planet's France guide for a comprehensive look at what the country has to offer.

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About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day.

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• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Dec 1, 2023
• ISBN: 9781837582815

Book preview

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to France

My Perfect Bike Ride

Our Picks

When to Go

Get Prepared

BY REGION

NORTHWEST FRANCE

Noirmoutier Island

Brittany Coast

Mont St-Michel

Gulf du Morbihan

Saumur Region

Also Try

ÎLE-DE-FRANCE (PARIS)

Meaux to Paris Canal

Paris Promenade

Auvers-sur-Oise

Fontainebleau

Also Try

CENTRAL FRANCE

Dolce Via

Chambon-sur-Lac

Voie des Vignes

The Morvan

Chambord Region

Lyon Rivers Ride

Grand Brenne

Also Try

THE ALPS

Bourg d’Oisans & the Écrins

Lac d’Annecy Loop

Tarantaise Valley

Vercors Plateau

Chamonix-Mont-Blanc Valley

Also Try

PROVENCE & THE CÔTE D’AZUR

Plateau de Sault

Porquerolles

Route de Cezanne

Villages of the Luberon

Camargue

Gorges du Verdon

Also Try

SOUTHWEST FRANCE

Niort

Île de Ré

Canal des Deux Mers

Bordeaux

Basque Country

Pau to Nay

Narbonne

Also Try

NORTHEAST FRANCE

Meuse River

The Côte d’Opale

Champagne

Strasbourg

Also Try

TOOLKIT

Arriving

Getting Around

Accomodation

Bikes

Health & Safe Travel

Responsible Travel

Nuts & Bolts

Rides by Difficulty

Behind the Scenes

The Authors

DOWNLOADABLE DIGITAL RIDE MAPS

Download GPX or KML files of the rides in this book so you can take the route with you on your ride.

Welcome to France

As a family, a solo cyclist or with friends, the rides in this book will unveil the very best of cycling in France. Explore the Alps and the Pyrenees, or opt for a coastal ride in Brittany or along the Mediterranean. Plan a ride that coincides with festivals or wildlife migration – the ideas are endless. We believe you don’t have to don lycra leggings and snap-on bike cleats to enjoy cycling in France. And we know that this climate-friendly way of exploring the world will get travellers right into the thick of everyday local life – and that’s the real heart of travel.

Enjoy shady rides along the Loire river or challenging climbs up to the breathtaking views of Verdon. This book has all you need to go from dreaming of cycling in France to organising rentals and downloading GPS tracks to get the adventure underway.

Cycling near Mont Blanc and Chamonix

Luke Jarmey / TFA/ Ascent/Getty Images ©

My Perfect Bike Ride

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Ashley Parsons

PROVENCE & THE CÔTE D’AZUR

Provence during the off season is without a doubt my favourite region to cycle. Filled with innumerable back roads that lead to villages nestled into the flanks of the Luberon, it’s just begging to be pedalled, and I’m always surprised by the routes I discover. Plus, there’s always at least one cafe open in the villages, and in the off season, artists, artisans and farmers have the time to sit and chat about their passions.

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Charles Onians

Northeast France

My perfect ride is along the Meuse River from Charleville-Mézières into the wooded hills of the Ardennes. The wildlife, history and natural beauty, along with the option to link up with the even more peaceful Semoy river, make this hard to beat. In researching this book, I spent a night in my tent in a field (with the farmer’s permission!) on the banks of the Meuse, hearing beavers frolicking in the river’s gentle waters. Blissful.

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Provençal lavender field

Batkova Elena/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top 5 Scenic Rides

1

Champagne

Cycle through Champagne vineyards and countryside.

2

Mont Ste-Victoire

Immerse yourself in the colours that inspired Cezanne.

3

North Brittany

Experience the panoramas of the Côtes-d’Armor.

4

Chamonix Valley

Traverse plains and narrow gorges, with an unveiling of Mont Blanc.

5

Dolce Via

Hug the curves of the Ardèche mountains as you travel.

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Christopher Cooley

SOUTHWEST FRANCE

For me the Basque Country is a cycling paradise. It’s never going to be easy and you have to be mentally prepared to tackle the steep hills, but the rewards definitely make a tough day in the saddle worth it. From the stunning scenery and unspoilt countryside to its timeless culture and outstanding gastronomy, it’s a magical part of the world where I return to explore time and time again.

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Pierre Jaumouillé

NORTHWEST FRANCE

My favourite ride is the one that leads to Mont St-Michel. It allows you to approach this marvellous site in an intimate way, by taking small roads. This ride will never leave you with the same feeling, whether you pedal in winter, spring, autumn or summer. The views will be different depending on the timetable of the tide. Reaching this prestigious site by bike is an extraordinary experience that you will remember for a long time.

Top 5 Family Rides

1

Mont St-Michel

Create memories by cycling to the fairy-tale abbey in Normandy.

2

Camargue

Spend a day flamingo spotting at the beach.

3

Pau

Fill your eyes with Pyrenean panoramas along the Véloroute 81.

4

Bourg St-Maurice

The whole family can cycle Bourg St-Maurice to Aime in the Alps.

5

Paris

Visit Père Lachaise Cemetery and Parc des Buttes-Chaumont on cycle paths in Paris.

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Quentin Boehm

THE ALPS

Living in the mountains above St-Gervais-les-Bains, my favourite ride is certainly the Mont Blanc ride, which I can start from my driveway. I love to watch the unveiling of the Mont Blanc range little by little as I pedal towards Chamonix, and stare up at the glaciers. The Alps have captured my heart because the seasons are so different. This makes each season special, and each time I ride this path, it’s like the first time.

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Rory Mulholland

ÎLE-DE-FRANCE

My perfect ride is along the Canal de l’Ourcq from the town of Meaux to Paris. I’ve done it dozens of times over the years, and it’s a great escape from the crazy city for a few hours. A short train ride takes you to Meaux, a pretty cathedral town famous for its Brie cheese. Then you cycle through rolling countryside along the tree-lined canal and slowly re-enter the metropolis of the French capital.

Our Picks

BEST GASTRONOMY ROUTES

It’s the capital of fine cuisine, so France is the perfect cycling destination to work up an appetite. Dine in fine restaurants while in cities, sure, but don’t underestimate the power of local dishes made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. From salty oysters on the Atlantic coast to cheesy fondue in the Alps, food lovers should try these gastronomic cycling journeys!

TOP TIP

Local cheese, oil, produce or wine cooperatives are the best way to support local farmers and taste the finest selection of local products.

1 Meaux

Stop into a fromagerie (cheese shop) in Meaux, the home of Brie cheese.

2 Bourg St-Maurice

While in Bourg St-Maurice, stock up on summer Beaufort cheese at the cooperative.

3 Basque Country

Try a gâteau Basque or a piperade of AOP Piment d’Espelette while cycling Basque country.

4 Île de Noirmoutier

Pedal up to an oyster hut on Île de Noirmoutier to sample freshly shucked oysters.

5 Lyon

Lyon is home to 20 Michelin-starred restaurants. Reserve in advance.

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Gâteau Basque

hlphoto/shutterstock ©

Provençal tomatoes

Angelo Alibert/getty images ©

TOP TIP

France functions on seasonal dishes. Even if Provence’s tomatoes are to die for, don’t try to find ripe, local tomatoes in the winter.

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Black storks

David Kalosson/Shutterstock ©

Timing Matters

Wild animals are active in early morning and at nightfall. Check migration patterns to see when the species will be around.

Our Picks

BEST WILDLIFE ROUTES

With long littorals, marshlands, two chains of high-altitude mountains and endless countryside, France’s varied climates are home to a rich wildlife population. The location of natural parks isn’t random either: these parks serve not only as refuges, but often line up to create wildlife corridors. Thanks to this planning and conservation, populations of flamingos, chamois, beavers and deer can be visited while cycling the four corners of France.

TOP TIP

Keep quiet while observing animals, but also in the local cafe. Bragging about the wolf you spotted might attract a poacher.

1 Meuse River

Spot beavers and black storks in the wetlands and on the banks of the Meuse river.

2 Brenne

In the Brenne’s ponds birders can spot dozens of threatened species taking refuge.

3 Chambord

Visiting Chambord during the red deer rut will send shivers down your spine.

4 Gorges du Verdon

The Gorges du Verdon are home to spry chamois and more than 300 circling vultures.

5 Narbonne

A gravel ride through Narbonne gets cyclists up close to lagoons full of flamingos.

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European beaver

CreativeNature_nl/getty images ©

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Cycling, central Paris

jan kranendonk/ShutterStock ©

TOP TIP

Reserve children’s bikes and trailers in advance. Remember e-bikes are for ages 12+.

Our Picks

BEST FAMILY RIDES

Cycling is a family-friendly activity that can be adapted to all ages. Give preference to routes that have secure bikeways or low traffic. Adapting daily distance goals and activities in relation to the whole family’s ability to keep up and enjoy is crucial. But travelling with children offers a new angle to experiencing France by bicycle. Here are our favourite family-friendly bike rides.

TOP TIP

High-visibility vests are not a bad idea when cycling as a family. They’ll help any on-coming traffic spot the group.

1 Mont St-Michel

Cycling to the fairy-tale abbey Mont St-Michel in Normandy will create lifelong memories.

2 Camargue

Spend a day with the kids spotting flamingos at the beach in Camargue.

3 Pau

Fill your eyes with Pyrenean panoramas along the Véloroute 81 near Pau.

4 Bourg St-Maurice to Aime

The whole family can cycle Bourg St-Maurice to Aime in the Alps.

5 Paris

Visit Père Lachaise Cemetery and Parc des Buttes-Chaumont on cycle paths in Paris.

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Flamingos, Camargue

Franz Aberham/getty images ©

Our Picks

BEST SCENIC RIDES

It’s probably impossible to name the ‘Best View in France’. But here’s a best-of-the-best list anyway! See endless vineyards in Champagne or the peaks of the French Alps, breathtaking gorges in Verdon, or the colours of Cezanne. Less dramatic views still mark the memory, whether they’re from a ride along the littoral of Brittany or a leafy descent through the Ardèche region.

TOP TIP

Each of these rides is magnificent year-round. Come prepared with the right gear, and no matter the season or weather, you’ll love these views.

1 Champagne

Champagne vineyards and countryside. On clear days, see Reims cathedral from afar.

2 Mont Ste-Victoire

Immerse yourself in the colours that inspired Cezanne while cycling at the base of Mont Ste-Victoire.

3 Northern Brittany

Riding along the coast of northern Brittany is rich with panoramas of the Côtes-d’Armor.

4 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc Valley

Through plains and narrow gorges, with an unveiling of Mont Blanc, discover this beautiful valley below Mont Blanc.

5 Dolce Via

Hug the curves of the Ardèche mountains while cycling the Dolce Via in Central France.

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Chamonix-Mont-Blanc Valley

Yuriy Brykaylo/shutterstock ©

Our Picks

BEST WINETASTING RIDES

Libraries full of records, studies and reviews of French wine pale in comparison to visiting the vineyard yourself. And why not visit one or two while cycling? Discover here our favourite rides that pair the joys of cycling with the flavours and sensations of wine tasting. From Burgundy to Bordeaux and everywhere in between, discover old classics and new favourites in the world of French wine.

TOP TIP

Love the wine you tasted? No need to pack your purchases in your saddlebags; most vineyards accept orders and ship internationally.

1 Voie des Vignes

Visit four villages in the heart of Burgundy wine country on the Voie des Vignes.

2 Bordeaux

Along the riverside in Bordeaux, stop to taste the region’s renowned wines.

3 Luberon

In the Luberon region, stop at wine cooperatives in Bonnieux or Coustellet.

4 Champagne

When cycling in Champagne pause at the cellars in Pouillon for a flute of the good stuff.

5 Loire Valley

Renowned for its castles and fruity wines, the Loire Valley is a royal visit.

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Wine cellar, Chateau de Pommard

MalcolmCroft/Wikimedia Commons © Creative Commons BY-SA 4.0

When to Go

Escape to the mountains during hot summers, or ride the southern coast in winter. France has a ride for each season.

I LIVE HERE

SPRING IN THE ALPS

Ashley Parsons is a writer and outdoors enthusiast. @jailoo.studio

Once I’ve stored away my skies for the season, I’m anxious to cycle the mountain passes in the French Alps. There are often restaurants at the top of the long climb to the mountain passes. These are perfect for popping in for a celebratory coffee or lunch before zipping back down the other side. In the spring, when the passes have just opened up, there is usually a bit of snow still lingering at the top, and as I descend to the valley floor, I get to watch the landscape unravel into spring colours due to the altitude change.

April to October is the best period for cycling in France, although during the height of vacation season in August, you may need to search out rides in less-visited areas. Of course, cyclists will also need to take the region into account. Only Provence is relatively easy to cycle in winter (and only on days when the mistral doesn’t blow). Still, the saying ‘there is no bad weather just bad preparation’ holds true for cycling in France. Even in the snowy regions of the Alps, if you can rent a bike with snow tyres, you can cycle.

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Tour de France

Radu Razvan/shutterstock ©

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Carnaval de Nice

litchi cyril photographe/SHutterstock ©

TOP TIP

Normandy has a reputation for being wet, but it’s overstated. It does rain often in the north of France, but it rarely rains all day. Keep a raincoat in your saddlebags and don’t let the risk of rain dissuade you!

Accommodation

Travelling in the November-to-March off season reduces the options on the market, but also usually reduces the prices. Also, those options that are available year-round are easier to book outside peak times. When business owners have fewer clients, it’s easier to ask for a lower price, especially if you plan on staying a few nights.

CLIMATE CLICHÉ: IT ONLY SNOWS IN THE ALPS

The Alps aren’t the only region in France where you may need snow tyres. The Massif Central, which includes Ardèche and Auvergne, can see impressive snowfall. And in the Alsace and Vosges regions, snow is no stranger either!

BIG EVENTS

Many cities in Provence and the Côte d’Azur celebrate Carnaval, but the longest and largest Carnaval celebration in France takes place in Nice, usually in February (the exact dates change each year). February

Each year on 21 June, the central square of every village in France comes alive for a night of music called La Fête de la Musique. June

The world’s most famous bike race, the Tour de France (or Le Tour, as it’s called in France), spans 23 days in July and covers nearly 3500km. Join the ‘caravan’, and grab a spot to watch the cyclists zoom past. The women’s version, Tour de France Femmes, takes place a week after the men’s race. July

OFFBEAT EVENTS

A bike journey with a secret destination, The Mad Jacques ends in a festival. Various The Jazz au Phare is a weeklong music fest on the Île de Ré. July/August Dressed in vintage clothes and riding vintage bikes, revellers in the Anjou Vélo Vintage Festival explore the Loire Valley. June/July

Weather Watch (Marseille)

JANUARY

Avg daytime max: 12°C.

Days of rainfall: 6

FEBRUARY

Avg daytime max: 13°C.

Days of rainfall: 4

MARCH

avg daytime max: 16°C.

Days of rainfall: 4

APRIL

avg daytime max: 18°C.

Days of rainfall: 5

MAY

avg daytime max: 23°C.

Days of rainfall: 4

JUNE

avg daytime max: 26°C.

Days of rainfall: 2

JULY

avg daytime max: 29°C.

Days of rainfall: 1

AUGUST

avg daytime max: 29°C.

Days of rainfall: 2

SEPTEMBER

avg daytime max: 26°C.

Days of rainfall: 3

OCTOBER

avg daytime max: 21°C.

Days of rainfall: 6

NOVEMBER

avg daytime max: 16°C.

Days of rainfall: 5

DECEMBER

avg daytime max: 13°C.

Days of rainfall: 5

Get Prepared for France

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain

Clothing

The best way to dress for cycling is in layers:

Basics: Short-sleeved merino or sports shirt; these dry quickly and don’t hold odour. Thin, long-sleeved shirt - good for brisk mornings. A lightweight raincoat. Fast-dry socks that won’t rub in your shoes. Tennis shoes or sports sandals, avoid-flip flops. Shorts – padded cycling shorts in particular. Sunglasses, as even on cloudy days they can reduce glare.

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wk1003mike/shutterstock ©

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Eshma/shutterstock ©

Chilly weather: A lightweight fleece jumper to keep you warm on breaks. Leggings or padded cycling pants can help a lot on longer rides. A windbreaker-style raincoat – cold and wet are the opposite of what you want to be. Thin gloves are great. Your fingers are mostly static while cycling – gloves keep them toasty. A neck gaiter is essential for chilly weather but also good for descents.

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steamroller_blues/shutterstock ©

Cold weather: Hiking or cycling pants are essential. A pair of shell pants can help protect from the wind. Don’t forget spare socks. Warm gloves are essential for descents, but also helpful against the wind. A thin hat – one that fits under a helmet.

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Lilkin/shutterstock ©

WATCH

Ventoux

(Nicole van Kilsdonk; 2021) A group returns to Provence to cycle Mont Ventoux, a feat that ended tragically for them 30 years prior.

The Triplets of Belleville

(Sylvain Chomet; 2003) Animated film in which the Tour de France cyclist grandson of Madame Souza is kidnapped by mobsters.

The Armstrong Lie

(Alex Gibney;