Swaziland

By David Fleminger

The kingdom of Swaziland is a friendly, compact and enchanting country to visit. Its landscapes range from dramatic mountain peaks to deep river valleys, from lush rolling hills to evocative bushveld plains. Add to this a thriving cultural heartbeat, a traditional monarchy going back hundreds of years and a proud national identity, and you have a really special vacation destination. Swaziland also boasts some top-notch adventure activities, such as river-rafting, quad-biking, mountain-biking, hiking, big game-viewing and horse-riding trails. There are plenty of accommodation options, ranging from 5-star international hotels to quaint B&Bs, to backpackers, to home-stays in traditional beehive huts. And there is a wide choice of places to eat, handmade crafts to buy and things to do. This book is the first travel guide entirely devoted to the kingdom of Swaziland. It includes a compelling account of the country’s fascinating history and cultural heritage. There are full listings of accommodation, eating and activity options. Suggested travel itineraries are included to help you make the most of your time in the Kingdom. Whatever your interests, whatever the season, Swaziland is a delight, just waiting for you.

• Language: English
• Publisher: 30 Degrees South Publishers
• Release date: Jan 19, 2009
• ISBN: 9781928211082

Book preview

Getting started

Introduction

I love Swaziland. From the first time I ventured into this tiny tranquil kingdom back in the early 1990s, I immediately felt comfortable, relaxed, and at peace with the world. I have been back many times since; usually only for a few days at a stretch, but it’s always a pleasure; just like visiting an old friend or slipping on a favourite pair of jeans.

You’ll have to forgive me if I am overstating the case, but Swaziland has a way of getting inside your soul. It’s a dreamy, sleepy, beautiful country that enchants visitors with its scenery and laid-back atmosphere. It is also a proud country, with a fascinating history and a strong cultural identity. Above all, it is a place of continuity where traditions stretching back hundreds of years are still very much a part of everyday life. Swaziland, in fact, is the domain of the last absolute monarch in the world—and even though this political dispensation may seem downright medieval in today’s terms, it undoubtedly represents a big part of Swaziland’s timeless charm.

One reason for this unbroken continuum is that, rather uniquely, there have been no wars or armed conflicts on Swazi soil for well over 100 years. Even though it is surrounded by countries that have been riven by civil war and racial tension, this tiny landlocked territory has somehow avoided many of the traumas that have characterized the turbulent 20th century in southern Africa. It has not been invaded, conquered, usurped or dominated by any oppressive regimes; even the usually fraught British colonial era in the country was established and then dismantled with remarkable amicability.

The other thing that strikes most visitors to Swaziland is the unhurried pace of life. Just like Aesop’s tortoise who won the race against the rushing rabbit, time in Swaziland moves at a snail’s pace; steady and slow. In fact, you could say that everything in Swaziland happens at walking pace—the same speed at which people stroll up and down the endless hills. Predictably, this means that Swaziland isn’t exactly at the top of the world’s productivity ratings, and industry struggles to find a firm footing in this chilled-out corner of the world. But that’s largely what makes it a perfect destination for anyone who needs to relax and recharge. So, all in all, Swaziland seems to be a happy country. The people are very friendly, there’s very little crime, and the wider community appears to function effectively. However, there are several challenges facing this idyllic spot on the map as it barrels into the 21st century: tragically, the HIV and AIDS infection rate is among the highest in the world; economic development is limited; the majority of the population are very poor, and unemployment is rampant.

Even the usually sacrosanct authority of the monarchy is under attack with a small minority of Swazis pointing fingers at what they perceive to be extravagant spending by the current king. Others have a problem with the king’s polygamy, even though this is in accordance with Swazi tradition. Cries for a multi-party democracy from activists, who interestingly do not want the monarchy abolished, are often in conflict with the greater majority of rural monarchists.

Nevertheless, for all its troubles, Swaziland gives us a tempting glimpse of how Africa might have turned out if the last 100 years or so of colonial and political turmoil had been handled in a more responsible manner by the powers-that-were. As such, it is a telling example of what can happen when an African country is allowed to find its own solutions. One day, perhaps, the entire continent will be as pleasant as Swaziland.

So, Swaziland is beautiful, compact and peaceful. It also offers a range of leisure activities that range from hiking to horse riding, to white water rafting, to cultural events, to gambling, to big game spotting, to shopping. All in all, it’s a great place to be and every time I visit, I come away with the half-serious notion that I should emigrate there.

In the pages that follow, you will find out more about the fascinating history of this remarkable little country. We will also explore the various attractions and destinations that might appeal to the traveller, and suggest several itineraries to help you plan your trip.

The ‘Exploring Swaziland’ section is divided into five sections: the Centre (Mbabane/Ezulwini/Manzini); the Northwest; the Southwest; the Northeast and the Southeast. Phone numbers for hotels and attractions are found under their relevant headings. Every attempt has been made to assemble accurate and up-to-date information but, for a country where nothing seems to change, contact details seem to be in a constant state of flux.

My hope is that this guidebook, the first of its kind in many years, will enhance both your Swazi tourism experience and your understanding of the nation’s history. Ideally, after reading this book, you will be encouraged to either plan a trip if you haven’t been before, or be stimulated go back and discover more about the wonderful Kingdom of Swaziland.

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The basics

Size

Swaziland covers a roughly circular area of just over 17,000 square kilometres. That’s about the same size as Wales or Kuwait—making it the third smallest country in Africa (after the Seychelles and Gambia). The kingdom measures roughly 175km from north to south and 115km from east to west.

Population

Until recently, he kingdom had an official population of 1.1 million. However, the latest estimates put it at 930,000, a negative growth rate caused by HIV/AIDS. Many Swazis also migrate to neighbouring South Africa every year in search of employment opportunities. There are about a million Swazi-speaking people living across the border in South Africa, although many of them are native South Africans who were cut off from their brethren during the colonial border adjustments of previous centuries. The average age of the population is around 18 with 40% of the population under 15, and the average life expectancy is a rather dismal 37 years, projected to worsen to 33 by 2015. About 75% of the population lives in the rural area

Climate

Swaziland has a pleasant subtropical climate, with most of the rain falling during the summer months. Average summer temperatures range from 15 to 25 degrees Celsius, while winter tends to offer mild days with peaks between 15 and 19 degrees. This will vary depending on the altitude, however, and it can get chilly in the western mountains, especially in the evening; so bring something warm. Conversely, the eastern Lowveld can get unpleasantly hot and humid during summer. Malaria is endemic to the eastern part of Swaziland (basically anywhere east of Manzini), but this is not a problem in the lofty climes of the western region.

Rainfall also varies with the altitude; from 1,000 to 1,600mm in the high-lying western region to between 500 and 600mm in the east. The country’s highest point, at 1,862 metres, is Emlembe/Mlembu Mountain near Pigg’s Peak, and the lowest point is on the Great Usuthu River, which bottoms out at only 21m above sea level.

Language

Demographically speaking, Swaziland is a relatively cohesive place. The majority of the population are members of a single cultural group with a common language, tradition and king. This unity makes the Swazi nation justifiably proud. The official languages are SiSwati (an Nguni language, similar to Zulu) and English. Both are taught in the schools, where English is often the medium of instruction. As a result, English is widely spoken, especially by the youth.

Religion

About 80 per cent of the population is Christian; the rest subscribe to traditional belief systems, although boundaries between the two faiths are not distinct. For example, many Swazis find no contradiction between going to church and consulting with traditional diviners (sangomas) who communicate with ancestors. Modern visitors who wish to have their future told by the ritual of ‘throwing the bones’ can visit a practising sangoma as part of a cultural tour.

The first Christian mission was established at Mahamba in 1844, but these hardy Wesleyans were soon forced out of the territory by political trouble and only returned several decades later. Today, most Christian denominations are represented. Charismatic and evangelical congregations are becoming increasingly popular.

The missionary zeal of some churches is still evident in Swaziland. Recently, the educational syllabus was amended whereby students would be taught about other religions of the world. This decision was strongly opposed by fundamentalist church leaders, which I found rather benighted.

Borders

Swaziland is land-locked. In the east it is bordered by Mozambique, while South Africa surrounds it in the north, west and south. Traditionally, the Swazi domain was much bigger than it is now, extending from the Phongolo River in the south to the Crocodile River in the north and from Kosi Bay in the east to beyond the western escarpment. However, towards the end of the 19th century, the present-day borders of Swaziland were controversially pushed back as part of the contemporary political wrangling between the South African Boer republics, the Swazi monarchy and the British. There are still persistent complaints from the Swazis regarding their diminished boundaries, especially in the north and southeast, but this is unlikely to be resolved any time soon.

As Swaziland is an independent country, entry is only permitted through one of the official border posts it shares with its two neighbours, South Africa and Mozambique. Thankfully, the border process is now computerized and waiting times have been greatly improved. There still isn’t a Duty Free, though.

Currency

The official Swazi unit of currency is the Lilangeni (plural: Emalangeni), which translates as ‘royal person’. This is directly pegged to the South African Rand at 1:1. You can use South African currency as legal tender throughout Swaziland. Note, though, that you can’t spend your Emalangeni in South Africa, so don’t accumulate too much change.

The flag

The current Swazi flag was first flown on 30 October 1967. It has a central horizontal band of crimson—signifying royalty and the battles of the past. This is bordered on either side by a thin strip of yellow, symbolising the natural resources of the nation. All this is sandwiched between two outer bands of blue that stand for peace and stability. In the middle of the flag are the shield, spear and staff of the king’s regiment, the Inyatsi. It is said that the shield is black and white to show that all races live together peacefully in Swaziland.

Economy

In terms of Gross Domestic Product the main economic activities in Swaziland are agriculture (12%), industry (45%) and services (43%). Farming is focused on sugar, citrus, cattle, pineapples and, to a lesser degree, cotton. Forestry, manufacturing and tourism are also important contributors. Mining used to play a significant role, but most mining activity has now ceased, with only one coal mine still operational.

Swaziland also has a neat little sideline in the production of Coca-Cola concentrate, and exports significant quantities of the sticky sweet stuff annually. This is a legacy of the previous century, when apartheid-era sanctions forced the Coca-Cola Company to move its manufacturing facilities out of South Africa in 1987. Coke is now one of Swaziland’s biggest earners of foreign exchange. The king even spoke at the company’s 20th anniversary party. Unsurprisingly, South Africa snaps up most of Swaziland’s exports, and supplies about 90% of its imported goods. South Africa also supplies Swaziland with most of its electricity. Receipts from the Southern African Customs Union make up about two-thirds of the government’s revenue, with the rest coming from taxes. The nearest harbour is at Maputo, about 200km from Matsapha, the industrial hub.

Unemployment sits at around 40%, with 70% of the population living below the poverty datum line, however most of these people practise successful subsistence farming so these statistics are perhaps misleading.

Tibiyo Taka Ngwane, the national fund, is a development agency that facilitates investment and owns many of the country’s assets—which are generally held in trust for the nation by the king. This complicated relationship between king and country means that many big businesses operate with Tibiyo as a partner.

Healthcare

There are several public clinics and hospitals located around Swaziland. There are also a couple of privately-run healthcare facilities for those who can afford them. Nevertheless, about 80 per cent of the population will visit a traditional healer (inyanga) before they see a western doctor. It is therefore crucial that this ancient form of healthcare be embraced by organizations trying to combat the scourge of HIV and AIDS.

HIV and AIDS

Swaziland has one of the highest HIV-infection rates in the world. Despite a recent reduction of several percent, prevalance is still estimated at between 26% and 40%, with 15% of households headed by children under 18. There are currently around 80,000 AIDS orphans, projected to increase to 120,000 by 2010. As such AIDS is a national disaster, having nullified a large chunk of the productive population.

To try and combat the pandemic, several international agencies and NGOs have set up operations in Swaziland. Their activities range from education to orphan care to health services. The churches are also involved, but I felt that a prominent church-sponsored billboard which advised ‘All sex that leads to hell is unsafe’ was rather unhelpful.

Politics

The Swazi king is an absolute monarch—the last in the world. There is a parliament, however, which consists of a House of Assembly and a Senate.

Political parties were banned by Sobhuza II, the current king’s father, in 1973 and are still technically illegal. Sobhuza felt that the concept of a political opposition was inimical to the African experience, and rejected democracy as an alien concept. He also stated that all parties belonged to the king, so it was inappropriate to make people choose one over the other. Instead, the tinkhundla system is used to advise the king and nominate candidates for parliament. Under tinkhundla, the nation is split into 55 inkhundla: 14 in Hhohho district, eleven in Lubombo district, 16 in Manzini district and 14 in Shiselweni district. The boundaries of these tinkhundla are revised every five years.Each inkhundla comprises a number of local chiefdoms under the leadership of an indvuna, who is chosen by the king. In election years, each inkhundla uses a secret ballot to nominate three local members to stand as candidates for the House of Assembly. During this stage, no campaigning is allowed.

In the secondary phase, the nominated candidates are permitted to campaign and, on election day, each inkhundla votes one member to the House of Assembly through a secret ballot.

The House of Assembly therefore consists of members elected by the tinkhundla, as well as ten members appointed directly by the king. There is also an attorney-general (who does not have a vote) and four women elected by a joint sitting of parliament from a shortlist supplied by the Election and Boundaries Commission. The Senate consists of ten members elected by the House of Assembly and 20 members appointed by the king. At least half the senators must be women.

Parliament is supplemented by a traditional government that consists of the libandla (national council) and the liqoqo (royal inner council). The libandla represents every male in the land, irrespective of age or status. The libandla usually meets once a year inside the national sibaya (cattle kraal), but can be called up for emergency meetings. The liqoqo deals with the day-to-day matters of state and is selected by the king.

The king also chooses his prime minister from the House of Assembly, with advice from his liqoqo. The king and the PM then select a cabinet. The PM, cabinet and parliament can be dismissed by the king if he considers them to be incompetent. A somewhat nebulous collection of ‘elders’ (senior princes of the royal Dlamini clan) also play a role in the traditional and political life of the kingdom. Although I’m certainly no expert on this intricate system of government, suffice it to say that although the parliament may debate issues and put forward policy decisions, the king is the supreme head of state and always has the final say. As such, the king is never wrong, and you may not criticize umlomo longacalimanga (the mouth that never lies). However, you can criticize the government; this strange duality is something the Swazis embrace.

Although most Swazis profess to being satisfied by the tinkhundla system, a few pro-democracy advocates are now demanding a change in the status quo. They insist that the problems facing the country are better met by a government elected by the people, and several technically-illegal opposition parties have started working together to push for far-reaching reforms. The king, for his part, shows no indication that he is ready to become a purely ceremonial monarch.

To make matters worse, there are some radicals who support integration with their more powerful neighbour, South Africa. There are a couple of other reasons for this uncharacteristic position: a stronger economy, more jobs, better infrastructure, potential for increased development and improved welfare structures (pensions in Swaziland are only R80 per month, about a tenth of the South African figure). Nevertheless, it is highly unlikely that the proud people of Swaziland would ever countenance any abdication of their sovereignty.

www.eisa.org.za – Electoral Institute of Southern Africa

Education

Swaziland has a highly functioning educational system and children will spend an average of ten years in school. Literacy rates are impressive, between 75% and 90%, depending on the age group. Even though the government spends a significant amount on education, schooling is not free and you must buy your own school uniform—no uniform, no schooling. Recently, however, plans have been announced to make schooling free (and compulsory) up to the end of primary school by 2015. Secondary education, at this stage, is still for the parent’s account, but girls may be offered half-rates to encourage greater participation in economy. Swaziland has only one university with several campuses (including an agricultural school). As such, there are a very limited number of places available and many school-leavers do not have the opportunity of receiving a tertiary education.

Traditional life

Swaziland is the embodiment of ‘living heritage’. Ancient cultural and spiritual rituals are still vital to the lives of many ordinary Swazis, and are not merely performed for the benefit of tourists. Apart from attending the annual umhlanga reed dance or the royal incwala harvest festival, the best way to experience the vibrant customs of the people is to go on a guided ‘cultural tour’. A list of guides can be found at the end of this book. The traditional outfit, still worn by many Swazis, is called emahiya, and consists of a number of components, depending on the person’s age, status and the occasion. Emahiya can include a sarong, an animal skin loincloth, a knee-length skin apron, necklaces, headdress, tassels and an ornamental rope that is tied around the upper body.

The requirements of emahiya are quite exacting, and it is considered bad form to transgress these codes. For example, if you are a man, you may wear the skins without the sarong, but if you wear the sarong without the skins, you can be fined a cow (or six goats—an exchange rate that has remained constant for many years). Furthermore, if you are wearing an upper-body tie without the sarong and skins, you are ‘just a drunkard’. The cloth can be in blue or yellow or orange or red, but has to consist of the correct patterns to be official. Tourists can buy their own Swazi sarongs at most craft markets (usually with a picture of a young King Mswati emblazoned across the centre).

The traditional Swazi greeting is ‘Sanibonani’ which is a plural form and also indicates respect, so you won’t offend anyone. Failing that, I’ve always found that a smile and wave does a pretty good job too.

In the rural areas, most people still live in traditional Swazi homesteads, called umuti (imiti in the plural). These family compounds can consist of mud huts, grass ‘beehives’, modern brick-built structures, or a combination of all three. According to custom, the first house to be constructed is the grandmother’s house. This is the central meeting place, and is seen as the home of the family’s ancestral spirits. It is always a round house, because evil spirits can hide in the corners of a room. Next to the grandmother’s house is a kitchen or cooking area. A number of additional dwellings are then built to accommodate the rest of the extended family.

The area around a homestead is usually cleared of grass and the sand is regularly swept clean. This is makes it easy to see snakes, and also reveals the footprints of any intruders who may sneak into the compound while the family is away.

Many homesteads will also have a place where the women sit and weave long stalks of grass into ropes, thatch, clothing, ornaments or handicrafts. The most popular kind of grass comes from Mdzimba Mountain, as it is very fine. Weavers also use Baboon Tail grass, which is more coarse. Bushels of grass are sold by traders in the markets, usually on a Thursday.

Marriage is an important part of Swazi life; people are encouraged to marry young. Small girls often sing a traditional song which warns that ‘the bus has gone and left me behind’. As Mandla, my guide, told me, the Swazis like their tomatoes pink and firm. They don’t like them red and ripe.

The Swazi marriage ceremony is similar to those of many other Nguni cultures, such as the Zulu or the Xhosa. It requires, among other things, the payment of lobola (a dowry paid to the bride’s father as compensation for losing a productive daughter). Lobola is usually priced in cows, which is one reason why cattle have played such a major role in the traditional economy of southern Africa. Today, many men are unable to raise enough money to buy the necessary cows, and this has lead to a weakening of the institution. Others are forced to pay off the lobola in instalments, but I’m not sure if interest is charged in these cases.

Another component of the marriage ceremony is the application of ochre soil to the bodies of the bride and groom. This is because the couple are saying that they will be together until they see ochre again, which is a touching variation on ‘till death us do part’.

Finally, the seven to ten per cent of the population who are left-handed should be aware that being a southpaw is considered unlucky in Swaziland. The king can never be left-handed and many teachers will still bandage up a student’s left hand so that they learn to write with their right. Women, however, traditionally walk on the left-hand side of a man—but this is for their own protection because, in years past, men would carry a shield in their left hand and a spear in their right.

Orientation

The landlocked kingdom of Swaziland is located in the northeastern part of southern Africa, and also borders on Mozambique. The country is divided into four administrative regions: Hhohho, Manzini, Shiselweni and Lubombo. The high-lying western part of the country (Hhohho and Manzini regions) is mountainous and lush, with dramatic peaks and enchanting valleys. It is characterized by Highveld vegetation, consisting of tall grasslands with isolated trees and bushes. The major plantations of the forestry industry are located in this part of the country, specifically around the town of Pigg’s Peak in the northwest corner of the country and Bhunya in the southwest.

The eastern and southern parts (Shiselweni and Lubombo) are much flatter and drier. This Lowveld region is characterized by thorn trees and grassland, much like the bushveld vegetation around the Kruger Park in South Africa, which lies just to the north. Many of the country’s sugar plantations are found around the small town of Simunye (in the northeast) and Big Bend (in the southeast). Big Bend also has large cattle farms which sprawl across the plains.

About 60 per cent of the country is given over to communal Swazi National Land, dotted with rural villages and subsistence farms. The eastern boundary of the country (with Mozambique) is demarcated by the Lubombo mountain range, which runs in a straight line from north to south.

The administrative capital of Swaziland is the modest city of Mbabane, located in the mountainous western part of the country. It has a population of around 100,000 people. The major industrial centre is Manzini, located about 35km to the southeast of Mbabane on the main MR3 freeway. It has a population of around 80 000 and is adjacent to the Matsapha Industrial Estate, where most of the manufacturing takes place. The legislative capital is at Lobamba, close to several royal palaces and located halfway between Mbabane and Manzini.

Conveniently, many of the major tourist attractions and accommodation options are also located between Mbabane and Manzini; either in the Ezulwini Valley (meaning Valley of Heaven) or the adjacent Malkerns Valley. This compact region therefore functions as both an economic and leisure hub and is the perfect place to begin your explorations.

Geology

As is usually the case, the rocks of Swaziland do not follow petty political boundaries, and should be seen in a wider context that spills over into the neighbouring regions of South Africa and Mozambique. As such, the geology of the kingdom offers an attractive snapshot of the transition between the mountainous African highveld in the west (which is part of the central African plateau) and the evocative bushveld lowlands in the east. These two regions are separated by a steep-edged escarpment which extends through the western part of the country. This is part of the Great Escarpment, which runs unbroken from the Drakensberg in KwaZulu-Natal to Mpumalanga in the north

In the northwestern part of the country, the Swaziland Supergroup (also known as the Barberton Supergroup) dominates the topography. This sequence of rocks contains traces of ancient granite/greenstone belts that date back 3.5 billion years to the Archaean epoch, and are among the oldest identifiable rocks on Earth.