Papa Mikeýs Palau Islands Handbook

By Mike Hollywood

The Republic of Palau is the westernmost archipelago in Oceania; it is renowned for it's pristine lagoons and immense marine diversity. Palau's marine community features over 800 varieties of hard and soft corals, over 1,500 fish species and over 100 varieties of sponges. Its waters feature two species of endangered turtle the green and hawksbill turtles as well as the most endangered marine mammal, the dugong. There are over 800 islands within its territory with over 50 marine lakes within those islands, each supporting its own diverse marine microclimate. The skies above Palau teem with over 140 varieties of birds representing 41 families and 16 endemic bird species. Palau natural wonders are world-renowned and it's clear waters host an assortment of dive sites that are considered by experts to be among the finest on the planet. This guidebook is written in a relaxed style, full of helpful information, presented with a touch of humor and the author's personal opinions. You will enjoy the lighter side of this well researched guidebook as you discover the natural beauty of these islands.

The only guidebook devoted entirely to Palau, allowing more in depth coverage than other titles encompassing all of Micronesia.
The most extensive and up to date listing of accommodations of any guidebook of the region, including photos, Website listings and E-mail addresses.
Complete Inter-Island flight schedules and island ferry boat schedules.
Extensive coverage of activities on each island. Diving, Fishing, Snorkeling, Kayaking, Surfing, Tours and Cultural Events.
Over 40 maps and pictures.

• Language: English
• Publisher: iUniverse
• Release date: Jan 12, 2006
• ISBN: 9780595820009

Mike Hollywood

Mike Hollywood is the author of two previous guidebooks. The West Indies on $50.00 a Day was published in 2001 and Papa Mike?s Cook Islands Handbook was published in 2003. Mike spent two months in the spring of 2005 traveling and researching his third guidebook on Palau. This book represents his third title with iUniverse. Mike resides in Emigrant, Montana. Contact the author at: Post Office Box 21, Emigrant, MT 59027 E-mail: [e-mail] Website: www.mikehollywood.com

Book preview

Papa Mike’s Palau

Islands Handbook

Mike Hollywood

iUniverse, Inc.

New York Lincoln Shanghai

Papa Mike’s Palau Islands Handbook

Copyright © 2006 by Mike Hollywood

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced by any means, graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording,taping or by any information storage retrieval system without the written permission of the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

iUniverse books may be ordered through booksellers or by contacting:

iUniverse

2021 Pine Lake Road, Suite 100

Lincoln, NE 68512

www.iuniverse.com

1-800-Authors (1-800-288-4677)

The author has made every effort to be as accurate as possible, but the passage of time may make some information obsolete. It is always best to confirm information before making plans. The author accepts no liability for any losses that may occur out of using any services provided by businesses listed in this guide. The author would be grateful for both positive and negative comments on any establishment that is recommendedin this guide.

ISBN-13: 978-0-595-37607-0 (pbk)

ISBN-13: 978-0-595-82000-9 (ebk)

ISBN-10: 0-595-37607-X (pbk)

ISBN-10: 0-595-82000-X (ebk)

Contents

Acknowledgements

PART I

The Trip

How to Use This Handbook

Overview

Introduction

General Information & Facts For The Visitor

Planning Your Trip

State Office Phone Numbers

What To Take

History of Palau

PART II

The Islands

Koror/Arakabesan/Malakal

Babeldaob Island

The Rock Islands

Peleliu Island

Angaur Island

Kayangel Island

Sonsorol Islands

Merir Island

Pulo Anna Island

Tobi Island

Helen Island

PART III

Reference

Four Trip Itineraries

Map Legend

Bibliography

About the Author

This book is dedicated with deep love to my father, Jack Mervin Hollywood, who for several months in 1944 and 1945 was an unlikely resident of Peleliu Island while serving in the South Pacific Theater during World War II.

Acknowledgements

I have now reached the completion of my third independent guidebook and can look back upon the undertaking with some pride. I have strived to assist readers to experience a different kind of island adventure, based roughly on the concept of guesthouse travel. All three books echo that theme and though the three locations differ in many ways, they all are located within the tropics; offer accommodations that approximate guesthouses and are populated by a people that are extremely friendly.

The world of travel for Americans and the rest of the world changed on that September day back in 2001 and in some ways now it is more important than ever that we get out there and see the world. I hope you enjoy the book and get a chance to see the incredible beauty of this true island paradise. Be assured that I will be out there searching for the next island paradise that mass tourism has not enveloped. I hope to see you on the road and if you find it before me please let me know. As I have said many times, paradise does not last forever.

Please use this book as it is intended, it is not a blueprint of a trip to Palau. It is an overview of possibilities and should not be construed as more than that. Some of the greatest and most memorable events in travel occur as a result of unexpected events or circumstances that send you down an entirely different path. Retain flexibility and the ability to adjust your travels when these events occur. I hope you enjoy the book, but use it as an outline only and blaze your own trail.

This book would never have been completed without the assistance of many. Listed below is a partial list of the parties, the ones I can remember. If I fail to mention anyone chalk it up to all those miles and senility.

My trip to Palau would not have nearly so enjoyable without the help of my friends over at the Palau Visitors Authority, the ever smiling and accommodating Leah Asanuma who found me a wonderful base of operation in Koror and assisted me on all my excursions to the outer islands. Also thanks to Susan Kloulechad and Anna, Susan for her computer skills and Anna for affording me the opportunity to tag along to her Wave presentations and infiltrate an entirely new generation of future Papa Mike fans.

Thanks to the owners and staff at the North Beach Cottages, you have a wonderful location and charming cottages. Now if we could just get that road completed! Thanks to Johnny Swords for his informative tour of Angaur and to his uncle Leon and aunt Grace for being so accommodating during my brief stay at their guesthouse on the beach. Grace, I loved the stuffed crabs and other meals you sent over. Hello and thanks to my landlord in Kayangel the lovely Ungilreng who sent me off on the boat with two complete lunches and three drinking coconuts, now if you could just acquire a softer cot to sleep on I will add another star to your lodging.

Visiting the island that my father was stationed on during World War II was very special and emotional. The experience was enhanced greatly by Tangi’s tour of the island and the relics of the war. I would also like to offer special thank you to fellow writer Franz Weisner who graciously allowed me to use his essay Quincy as the opening for the chapter on Peleliu. The story provides a fitting and poignant opening for the chapter.

There were many Palauan residents who provided me with valuable information for this book. I would like to thank Ron Leidich of Planet Blue Kayaks, Angaur Governor Horace Rafael, and Hatohobei Governor Crispin H. Emilio, Carol Ngiraidis of Dolphins Pacific and from the Coral Reef Research Foundation, Patrick Colin and Laura Martin

The owners and staff of the DW Motel are to be commended for allowing the author to reside in their wonderfully unpretentious establishment. Thanks Russell to you and your staff for a great stay. Special thanks to that little Samsung air-conditioner that endured 24-hour a day operation for the six weeks I was in Palau.

I would also like to thank a former UCSB Gaucho, Bill Ridpath for his time and information on surfing in Palau. Bill is the best surfing attorney in Palau, as his picture in the section on surfing will attest to.

Thanks to Johnson Toribiong for the many conversations about Palauan politics, traditions, customs and laws while enjoying a few Red Roosters in his new Velasko Pub near the waterfront in Malakal.

The hardest working folks in Palau are the foreign workers from the Philippines. They work hard as bartenders, waitresses and hotel workers, and they took very good care of Papa Mike! Thanks to all of you and you know who you are and I appreciate your efforts.

Back stateside I enlisted the help of Kelly Robertson and Gil Johnson, to help me with the cover graphics and maps, while up in Montana, I owe several Moose Drool Ale’s to Sterling Smith who also helped with those pesky maps.

After a month of frustration trying to edit maps I was fortunate enough to run into a couple of Santa Barbara neighbors, Jan and Mark Walker, who took on the task of editing and sizing the maps used in this book. On numerous occasions, when I least expected it, I miraculously receive the help of others to solve problems. Special thanks to both of you, and to Margie at Imagineering, who supplied the original documents for the maps. If you are interested in maps, be sure and visit Mark’s Website at www.mexicomaps.com for your entire map needs.

Thanks to all of you.

PART I

The Trip

How to Use This Handbook

So you watched all fourteen episodes of Survivor and fell in love with those jungle covered tropical limestone islands, their mushroom shape and those palm fringed white sand beaches are calling you. You long to machete the top off a coconut and lie in that crystal clear water. How do I go about it and how will this book help me make the trip?

Well, Papa Mike’s Palau Islands Handbook is your pocket tour guide for the ultimate Palau Islands vacation. It is designed for both the active traveler and the traveler that wants to recline on the same beach for two weeks. This book is chock full of practical information on how to get to the islands, where to stay, what to do and where to eat. The accommodation section covers a wide and up to date selection of lodgings from resort hotels to backpacker’s lodgings in Koror, Babeldaob, Peleliu, Angaur and Kayangel. If you have plenty of time on your hands, the guide will provide you with the information and who to contact to visit Palau’s distant South West Islands, complete with boat connections and home stay suggestions. The where to eat section on Koror will direct you to the author’s choice for authentic island food and drinks, which are considered by most to be the best in all of Micronesia.

With this handbook you can plan your trip to the Republic of Palau from anywhere in the world. The general information section will provide you with the entry requirements and practical information needed for your trip. In short, the handbook is both a planning tool for a trip to Palau and a daily reference for your stay in paradise.

How Much Will It Cost?

Palau is not an inexpensive destination and probably never will be. Airlines serving Palau have come and gone, and the geographic location of the archipelago of Palau is such that the chances of discount travel to Koror are slim at best. The good news is that Continental’s Air Micronesia is solid, profitable and will most likely provide reliable transportation to Palau for many years to come. If you are traveling from Korea, Taiwan or Japan there are a variety of packages available, that information is listed in the getting there section of this book, so refer to it if you are traveling from those departure points. While this guide is intended for all visitors to Palau, the primary emphasis is on western travel and costs listed are based on travel from the United States. You Europeans and British travelers will be heading east rather than west and will approach Palau from the opposite direction; Airline travel will most likely be comparable to travel from the United States.

A couple traveling from Los Angeles or San Francisco can plan on spending roughly US$3,000.00 for roundtrip airfare to Palau. Accommodations will cost another US$1,000.00 for moderate lodging choices and another US$1,200.00 for food, meals and miscellaneous items. This is based on a two-week stay in the islands and would include travel to at least two neighboring islands. These figures are based on a reasonably frugal couple, if you tend to favor luxury accommodations or fancy restaurants on a regular basis, you may want to add some to your budget. Imported alcohol is taxed at the rate of twenty cents per ounce with no differentiation between spirits and wine, so adult beverages and wine with meals can be quite expensive. As airfare is such a major component of the budget, it pays to keep an eye on discounts, travel during the off-season and search out consolidators. The author was able to save nearly US$400.00 by traveling through Manila on Philippine Airlines and then connecting with Continental for the leg to Koror. Go to the Internet and spend a couple of hours on those travel websites, alter your departure or return date if you can and search out the best deals, you may very well be rewarded for your efforts with a major savings.

Have a great trip and remember that the memories of travel and the people you meet while traveling are priceless, this justification will help you while you attempt to pay off your credit card debt over the next year or so.

Overview

The Republic of Palau became an independent nation on October 1st, 1994, prior to that it was a United Nations Trusteeship administered by the United States. As part of Palau’s independence, it entered into a Compact of free association with the their former administrator. This compact and the resulting squabble would in it’s own right constitute an entire book. Terms of the Compact and how they related to Palau’s new constitution were the subject of years of debate and eventually culminated with the assassination of then President Remeliik.

Palau’s constitution incorporated provisions banning nuclear materials from Palau and preventing the government from using eminent domain powers for the benefit of any foreign entity. Needless to say, these provisions did not appeal to the Americans. Over the next fifteen years these clauses were the subject of numerous referendums, with the nation deeply divided. Per Palau’s constitution, any referendum needed a three quarters majority to pass and the anti nuclear minority was greater than one third of the voting public.

After fifteen years the Compact was finally adopted, including the clauses that allowed for U.S. bases and the use of nuclear weapons. While today’s political climate may have somewhat reduced the need for the bases or the weapons, it is still a lively subject of debate amongst the islanders over ten years after adoption.

Before you feel sorry for Palauans, the Compact did require some payments to Palau at the termination of the Trusteeship. Firstly, the immediate payment of 172 million dollars, which in itself would help balance the budget of the new government, but secondly the payment of 300 million dollars over the next fifteen years. The later payments were structured on a declining basis, assuming Palau would develop some form of sustainable economy in the tail end of