Ancient Needlepoint and Pillow Lace - With Notes on the History of Lace-Making and Descriptions of Thirty Examples
By Alan S. Cole
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Ancient Needlepoint and Pillow Lace - With Notes on the History of Lace-Making and Descriptions of Thirty Examples - Alan S. Cole
ANCIENT NEEDLEPOINT AND PILLOW LACE.
ORIGIN OF LACE.
LACE, considered merely as a primitive arrangement of threads, plaited, twisted, or tied, is found with every nation in its earliest state of development, as are the beating of metal, the cutting or shaping of wood, and such works. Regarded from an artistic and not from an ethnographical aspect, Art Lace certainly owes its birth to the East. Readers of the Bible will not fail to recall the art work for the service of the sanctuary,
executed by Bezaleel the son of Uri, and they will, no doubt, now turn with additional interest to the accounts of the making of the curtains used in the sanctuary. In the loops of blue on the edge of one curtain from the selvedge in the coupling,
and in the ten curtains of fine twined linen,
with cherubims of cunning work,
we have early records of Eastern embroideries and open-work ornament. This last-named would, by a liberal interpretation, come under the classification Lace.
In the description of the cloths of service and holy garments,
is mentioned a lace of blue.
This also would have a place as Lace.¹ In making this statement we trust that we shall not be held to have fallen into the method of reasoning which induced Mr. Shandy to arrive at the conclusion that the Latus Clavus
of the ancients was the hook and eye
of the moderns. The Egyptians some thousands of years ago fringed their cloths and decorated the borders of them. Sometimes the border decoration would be simply blue embroidered lines; sometimes a double set of blue lines would be divided by an interval of drawn threads knotted together here and there, and so might be classified as a kind of lace.
Without further attempting to pursue the investigation as to the origin of Lace, we may repeat that the East was the cradle of Needlework and Lace. Thence, as commercial relations were facilitated and encouraged, the art ramified; its first influences arriving perhaps simultaneously in Greece and the Grecian Archipelago, Rhodes, &c. Its transport onwards to Rome and Italy then followed. The Lacinia of the Romans was the extremity of the toga, while the figurative meanings of this word, such as a rag, a lappet, pendulous lobes of flesh hanging from the jowl of a she-goat, a peninsula, all seem to point to an idea of something in fragments indicating a laceration,
whether of fabricated material, flesh, or land. Indeed, some authorities state that Lacinia was the name for the guard-hem or fringe of Greek and Roman costumes. The Greek word λακὶς (a rent or rending) seems to have a close connection with Lacinia, and so close is its resemblance in form to Lacinia, that we venture to ascribe the etymological origin of Lace to this Greek word. But the commencement of the fullest expansion of the art of Lace did not occur till the middle ages, at which period Venice was celebrated for her catholic encouragement of the fine arts. The workmen of the Renaissance revived the dead arts of the old Greeks and Romans, and brought to perfection arts which, in previous centuries, had barely existed. Amongst these Needlework and her sister-art, Lace, held