The Cutting, Setting and Engraving of Precious Stones - A Historical Article on Working Gemstones
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The Cutting, Setting and Engraving of Precious Stones - A Historical Article on Working Gemstones - Louis Dieulafait
Introduction to Gemmology
Gemmology is the science dealing with natural and artificial gems and gemstones. It is considered a geoscience and a branch of mineralogy. Although some practice gemmology as a sole profession, often jewellers become academically trained gemmologists, qualified to identify and evaluate gems. Rudimentary education in gemmology for jewellers and gemmologists began in the nineteenth century, but the first qualifications were instigated after the ‘National Association of Goldsmiths of Great Britain’ (NAG), set up a Gemmological Committee for this purpose in 1908. This committee matured into the ‘Gemmological Association of Great Britain’ (also known as Gem-A), now an educational charity and accredited awarding body, with its courses taught worldwide. The first US graduate of Gem-A’s Diploma Course, in 1929, was Robert Shipley who later established both the ‘Gemmological Institute of America’ and the ‘American Gem Society’. There are now several professional schools and associations of gemmologists and certification programs around the world.
The first gemmological laboratory serving the jewellery trade was established in London in 1925, prompted by the influx of the newly developed 'cultured pearl' and advances in the synthesis of rubies and sapphires. There are now numerous Gem Labs around the world requiring ever more advanced equipment and experience to identify the new challenges - such as treatments to gems, new synthetics and other new materials. Gemstones are basically categorized based on of their crystal structure, specific gravity, refractive index and other optical properties such as pleochroism. The physical property of ‘hardness’ is defined by the nonlinear ‘Mohs Scale’ of mineral hardness. Gemmologists study these factors while valuing or appraising cut and polished gemstones. Gemmological microscopic study of the internal structure is used to determine whether a gem is synthetic or natural, by revealing natural fluid inclusions and partially melted exogenous crystals, in order to demonstrate evidence of heat treatment to