All about Mani: And The Greek Crisis

By Doctor Mickey Demos

As an American-Greek I discovered that even though I was a Greek born in another country, I was not too different from the ones born here, especially here in Mani. We all have the same DNA! I wrote about the development of the "Greek Crisis" that began to surface when my wife and I arrived 14 years ago. I described the early symptoms of the oncoming financial crisis and the subsequent protests against the agreed-on austerity measures from the EU that were necessary in order to receive the bailout money to avert bankruptcy. I described the reasons for our decision to live and practice medicine here for the rest of my life. As a private physician in a socialized medicine country, I was able to take advantage of our relationship so they would open up to me about their personal feelings and customs. I discovered that many of these vocal Maniates were very proud of their heritage, and probably not too different from their ancestors that freed our country from the Turks, or from the ancient Greeks that founded civilization and democracy. I also touched on the history of this iconic country that all of us should know in addition to village customs, food, elections, our church wedding, farming, immigrants, economics, GDP, civil service, unemployment, protest rallies, strikes, Crete union, austerity, gossip, so-called laziness, garbage disposal, politics, fiscal deficit, pensions, olives, laws, religion, mythology, medicine, relatives. Cyprus, crime, relatives, wild flowers, Mesons, our arrest, landlords, arranged marriages, anti-Americanism, bribes, corruption, Eleftherios Venizelos, the Balkan Wars, etc, and more history, even though this is not a history book, but it contains what we Greeks should know about our country.. I wish I had read a book like this when I first arrived here.

• Language: English
• Publisher: BookBaby
• Release date: May 1, 2014
• ISBN: 9781483528199

Book preview

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CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION

This book is all about out trip to Mani focusing on events that are actually happening here. This includes the people’s feelings about the ongoing financial crisis, as well as a reflection on her historic past, but it really is a picture of how the people feel about what is actually going on around them at this historic time. Now (2013) Greece is ‘breaking news’ in all the leading television channels, newspapers, magazines, and internet sites of the world all discussing the Greek Crisis. The worldwide image of Greece as an icon is beginning to fade. Now Greeks are called lazy and that the government is so political and corrupt it is unable to economically sustain herself. The European Union (EU) says that Greece in its present form cannot be trusted or keep her promises that were in the loan agreements that the country negotiated to avert bankruptcy. Greeks are now generally depicted as people that look forward to finding some plush governmental job where they cannot be fired, and after an early retirement and nice pensions and social security money coming in like clockwork every month they sit at the tavernas with their male friends and take life easy. There they drink, smoke, and play backgammon discussing the issues of the day while their wives are at home cooking that great, and always tasty evening meal.

As a Greek-American I found out by actually living here that this description is not the real Greece. In fact, I feel like Greece is the scape-goat of the European Union, and the world as well. On the contrary! Greece is a wonderful country enriched with traditions, customs, beauty, exquisite natural resources, and great ideals as I have always been told and read. The Greeks are not lazy people! In fact, EU statistics show that they are number one in Europe in having the most jobs, some having 2 or even 3 (if they can find them now). True, there are some lazy people, but you cannot judge a whole country just on the basis of a few. Why has the image of Greece changed so quickly throughout the world? I will try to give you some insight as how this image developed as I witnessed this change since I arrived from America. I will give you my viewpoint, good or bad as I see it. Hopefully, we are just beginning to see Greece recover from this financial disaster, as she has always pulled through in the past. Greece isn’t known as the ultimate survivor for nothing! This country seems like it keeps getting into these situations and does not learn. Maybe this time it is different. From what I have witnessed, it looks like it.

I learned a lot about Mani from my mother who was born there. When I finally came here I saw and heard what was going on. With my own ears I listened to straightforward talk by strongly opinionated people living in this part of Greece. I found the natives to be very proud of this small piece of land that ignited the revolution that freed Greece from occupation by the Turks. My wife and I discovered that the people here have a proud connection with the past when their ancestors fought for freedom 200 years ago. The whole world knew about the Freedom Fighters of Mani with their war-like uniforms, the foustanellas and their characteristic mustaches that they introduced to the world as they were not the style at that time. The Greek Spirit was a popular saying throughout the world back then through the writings of Lord Byron from London. Now the Greeks are real upset about what the human race is saying about them. Their reputation has been severely tarnished because of the Greek Crisis. Their country has always been regarded very highly as the founder of civilization and democracy. I was always proud as a youngster in America to say that I am a Greek and I am proud of it! I was even given the name of a very famous Spartan king, Menelaos, by my parents and godparents when I was born because they said as a baby my body was so perfect that I looked like a little king. I know that sounds corny, but that is what they told me - no other reason for that unusual name in America I had nothing to do with it.

When my wife and I arrived in Greece at Easter time 1999 I felt like we entered a land of prosperity during this holiday period. A few years later the homeland became even more jubilant. It had just entered a bubble of wealth by being admitted to the euro zone (2002). As a result the banks had more money and were able to make easy loans to enable more people to start new businesses, buy a home or car even though most of the borrowers could not afford to make the payments. However, that didn’t last long because the Greek Crisis took over.

Patrick Leigh Fermor, an Englishman, authored a book about contemporary life in Mani over 50 years ago, and there have been few such books in English ever since. This book is a picture of what is actually happening today, not a dry chronological description of her past like a history book that we studied in school, but a lively tome! You could be reading this book on the beach or relaxing on your couch at home, and before you know it you are pretty current about what is actually happening here right now, as well as reconnecting you to the history of this iconic place. Actually, you can not live in Greece without feeling her history. Even though history was not my favorite subject in high school and college, I wrote enough about the history of this country that all Greeks should know, and be very proud of. You will not need a dictionary as there are no big words in this book. It is as if I were talking to you, even some comic relief about daily life, warts and all, in this small part of Greece from the viewpoint of the only urologist in Mani. This is the first book written about Mani in English in a long time about what is actually going on at this time as seen from the viewpoint of an‘outside’ Greek with strong Mani blood in his soul. (An ‘outside Greek’ is my definition of a man or woman who was born in another country from Greek parents with the same DNA in their souls.)

As a small land surrounded by mainly larger countries that tried to overpower her, this book gives a clue as to how our ancestors preserved freedom, and then almost lost it, but now as in the past she is beginning to recover. This small area at the southern point of the land initiated the revolution that motivated the rest of the nation to regain and maintain the sovereign independence that it has today. Democracy is still alive and well in this tiny country! However, many surrounding countries in the Middle East are still struggling to overthrow their dictators to form democracies, something that the Greeks accomplished a long time ago. By communicating with people in Mani everyday it is clear to me how they were able to pull off this great rebellion against the Turks, and why they are still free today in spite of the worldwide economic problem. The people here are unique. I was awed by the sense of identity displayed by the Maniates who have remained unmistakably Greek in spite of virtually 2,000 years of intermittent occupation. The people in Mani have preserved their language, their religion, and their traditions in spite of great odds against them. No wonder the Maniates still have freedom as well as their dignity in spite of the international creditors placing rigid demands on them. However, in order to enjoy freedom it must be regulated, prudent, and tempered, and follow the rule of law. Freedom does not come easy. It has its costs as they are discovering.

From the time of the Persian invasions through centuries of Roman and Turkish rule including two Balkan wars, two world wars, the second with Italian and German invasions and occupations that imposed the most brutality ever on any conquered land in history, Greece has endured and survived! As recently as World War II and the subsequent devastating civil war Greece faced destruction and famine. There followed military coups from which she emerged free once again. She just does not give up! The Mani Revolution proved to the world that freedom was available if people really wanted it, in spite of what their rulers thought. This is a story of how democracy has endured in Greece due to the resolve and will of these Mani freedom fighters. Around this time a new country, the United States, was born. America learned from the Greeks how to conduct a democracy that works! The founding fathers of the United States valued the ancient principles enough to create a nation based on the democratic and brotherly values set forth by Greece. I always felt that the freedom that America offered was actually derived from my forefathers, the ancient Greeks.

These are the Mani people that I got to know. Even though Greece is a beautiful, touristy country strategically located as the bridge between East and West on the stunning Mediterranean Sea with its beaches and tasty fish, her supreme quality is not beauty, but the craving to be free! Even today, the spirit of Greek democracy inspires other countries that are still envious of our form of government as shown by the recent revolutions in the Middle East where dictatorships and monarchies are toppled in the Arab Spring, and is currently happening in Libya, Egypt, and Syria. This feeling of freedom by regular people originated in Greece a very long time ago. The Greeks were certainly first in this category!

The journey from Miami to Mani was a road to freedom for us. This trip made me realize that many more generations of 'outside Greeks’ (about 7 million of us) across the world feel the same way. Greeks are known everywhere for preserving their language, their religion, and their traditions, and nowhere is this more evident than in Mani! Universally, we children of Greece with Greek blood in us, regardless of wherever in the world we were born are proud and eager to learn more about our heritage with the intense desire to perpetuate our traditions. That is the reason that this book is written in English. It is for those of us who cannot read Greek well, even though we went to Greek School in another country or learned from our parents who could not speak English. Most books about Mani are written only in Greek. The first time I heard of Mani was when I was 5 years old. When I finally came to Greece I realized that I belonged in Mani and wanted to live here permanently. I really felt like I came home. That feeling of freedom is everywhere. You can feel it here! This is where free will really means something to me, as well as to a lot of other people for centuries. This is where a Maniate, Petros Mavromichalis, was responsible for igniting the revolution against the Turks that brought back the democracy that Greece has today. He was my ancestor. He lived very close to where my mother was born and raised until the age of 12, and where my wife and I now live. Actually, I see his house where he was born from my house every day

A WILD PLACE

In those days mustaches were a sign, not merely of manliness, but of Greekness. In the nineteenth century every Greek man had a mustache, which was an indication of his background, education, ideals, and aspirations. This was in contrast with the clipped facial hair of the European. One Greek told me in jest one day, If a man does not have a mustache, his face looks like a woman.

Originally, most Maniates were bandits or pirates. They roamed the mountains and seas to take from travelers. There was no organized law of the land. They even fought their neighbors for food. They were rugged people. Their main concerns were survival and freedom for themselves. Mani is a land that has a bond with the past. The men and women of Mani were like the pioneers of the Wild West of America in its early days. The original Maniates were untamed, treacherous, and fierce fighters who shot people from their towers to protect their personal freedom. The main difference between the two peoples was that they were looking for gold in America, but in Greece they were seeking freedom. They have not changed. Why? It was because of the unique nature of the ground, especially the forbidding mountains, and the tough character of its inhabitants.

MANI A NEW VENTURE

When Else and I got off that ferryboat 14 years ago in Patra, I was amazed and enthralled with this new venture. Sometimes you reach what you think is the end and you find that it is a whole new beginning. The ride down to Mani, the birthplace of my mother, on that oceanfront highway was exciting with the exotic views of the Mediterranean and the Taygetos Mountains littered with hundreds of little villages nestled in with many of the Pyrgos tower houses still standing for centuries. Aunt Dina was like a lady from the past, a real pioneer. The view from my mother’s house with all that history around us was like the mountains and the sea were talking to me, unchanged for centuries. They were full of little stories that gave the real picture of what is happening in Mani today, and what has happened in the past. Talking about pictures please excuse me for my amateurish taking of the photographs with my own little camera but I just wanted you to see what I was seeing at the time. Our ancestors preserved freedom at a time when the Turks occupied all of Greece for almost 400 years! With this traditional attitude of the Greek people, especially the Maniates, and living with these people opened my eyes as to how democracy has endured in Greece for the past 2,000 years in spite of the interludes of occupation, coups, wars, and, now, bailouts. Talk about perseverance? The Greeks have it! Essentially, what I am trying to do in this book is cover four areas---a picture of what Mani is like today, an idea of the political and economic landscape, the great historical background of this great country, and to show you how Mani is able to survive again.

Being raised as a Greek-American made me realize and understand more about myself now as to why I took certain paths in life. It was destiny! As I discover my roots it is clearer why I followed certain roads by utilizing distinct Maniate traits - determination, resolve, stubbornness, perseverance, and the constant search for freedom. How this small area of Greece survived in its drive for liberty is quite evident from living and talking with these natives everyday. Please forgive me for dwelling on the medical part of my relationships with my patients, but as a physician most of my life, what can I do? It is so much easier and natural to describe my association with them as they open up to me as a physician. Anyway, it may help readers learn more about medicine, and perhaps just learning about the PSA may save some lives. In fact, it already has saved lives many times over here. What an opportunity to find Aunt Dina still living here for the past 85 years, and with her memory she forgets nothing! She is a sharp lady. She has an understanding of traditions and customs that have lasted here for hundreds of years. It is one thing to read about history, but to actually have first-hand knowledge from someone who has lived it is quite an advantage.

The multitude of churches with the Byzantine influence from historic times tells a story that is evident throughout Mani. The traditions, such as guns, prikas, superstitions, the curse of the eye, the tamas, and the building codes maintaining that Mani look is commendable. The food, as well as cooking the Mani style is easily the best in the world. The zest for fun, dancing, and good fellowship is striking. Practicing medicine in this socialized system is different, but I find that all patients appreciate honesty, empathy, and the willingness of their doctors to listen to their story, regardless of what country or system they live in. It is also a pleasant surprise to discover that people in Greece still have the freedom of choice for selecting their own physician rather than being a directive from a third party, so different from the United States. Practicing in the country that founded medicine by that great Greek physician, Dr. Hippocrates, is an honor. I was also struck by the powerful sense of identity displayed by the Maniates. In spite of many years of occupation and turmoil they have remained unmistakably Greek by preserving their religion, language, and traditions.

However, Greece has problems with its public debt, bureaucracy, corruption, garbage disposal, intentional fires, pollution, bribes, nepotism, littering, closed professions, rude taxi drivers, over-borrowing from banks with easy credit, overspending, too many traffic fatalities, too much smoking, reluctance to wear helmets and seat belts, etc. Greece has been living beyond its means for a long time. Please excuse my lack of putting these events into timely sequence but so many things happened during my writing that I just put them in when I could. After all, this is not a history book, but I wanted to make certain that you were aware of the dates that the events occurred. Maniates all want freedom. They like to do what they want to do, but freedom has its price. There is a limit. The troika is laying down the law demanding austerity measures for bailing Greece out to prevent bankruptcy. Will Greece survive? Of course she will! History is on our side. Even though history was not my favorite subject in school, I mention enough history in this book that all of us Greeks should know.

This financial crisis may help Greece right now, if you think about the positive side. It may create the best chance of achieving catharsis and tangible change. Sometimes, as in medicine when we doctors reach a dilemma in trying to make the correct diagnosis, or institute the right treatment, we obtain an expert opinion from someone on the outside to look at the problem fresh, and perhaps a lot clearer. A moment of crisis can be useful to rethink and then become a moment of opportunity. This may be a chance for Greece to right wrongs, correct injustices, rebuild its dilapidated structures, build up its infrastructure, and not fear the crisis but embrace and master it. It is like pressing the reset button rather than the self-destruct one. Greece will rely on her natural ‘perseverance’ that the Maniates have proven historically to be their best trait to survive insurmountable odds.

It is time for Greece to get serious and pull herself out of this period of discomfort. The whole world is talking about our country, which is threatening to destroy the eurozone, because of her financial dilemma. Some countries doubt that Greece will endure this economic crisis, and some speculators are actually betting that the country will fail! This reminds me when Greece won the bid to host the International Olympics in Athens several years ago. Many countries predicted that Greece would fail. So what happened? Greece had one of the best Olympics in history, a remarkable achievement for such a small country.

Rules are laid out now, and Greece must follow them. She must show the world once again that when she really wants to, she can succeed. I also learned this the hard way when my wife and I were arrested for having an illegal car here. I certainly had to take responsibility for my actions, just as Greece will have to. This way of thinking, endurance, and persistence will continue to keep Greece free. Even though it appears that Mani people are mean and dangerous there is another side to them. It is kindness, as shown by their hospitality when entering their homes, kissing you on both cheeks, and their insistence on accepting their gifts, and the giving of plenty of fresh eggs from their ever present chickens. However, once they realize that the visit is not sincere, a Maniate will always get you, sometimes generations later. Maniates are hesitant about trusting strangers as foreigners have stung them for centuries, so it is understandable why they are always on guard. However, immigrants that are good and productive are slowly winning over the Maniates and making the country better, but not too many of them! There is a limit! I also enjoy practicing medicine in Mani. The fact that patients come to my office on their own volition is inspiring to me. What a pleasure.

Politics in Greece has always been a problem. It is difficult for the man of each house (the king of his castle), or the mayor of each village in all of Greece to come together as one unit. However, the politics of Greece are changing as the global financial crisis hits here. They are realizing that if the country unites it can survive as proven by Alexander the Great, the defeat of the Persians, the successful Olympic Games, and the Maniates freeing Greece from the Turks. The reason for their success was their ability to unite people for one common cause.

My mom was correct when she said I was a Maniate. In addition to enjoying being catered to by women I also realize I have other Maniate attributes, such as being stubbornly persistent in reaching my goals. I also tend to blame others for my mistakes, and I am reluctant to follow rules. Even though my main desire in life is to be free to do what I want to do, I am also discovering that freedom is not free, and that I must take accountability for my actions. Life is a gift but freedom is a responsibility. My parents’ desire to find the American Dream was successful because of their perseverance and determination, but also by following the rule of law.

That old fighting spirit is still here! Mani played a major role in developing a free and democratic society for Greece through the free will of its people. This is a true story of how a Greek-American of Maniati ancestry lost a basic freedom in America, but found it again in today’s Mani. In addition, he discovered a great deal more about Mani that he was unaware of - mostly good things - but some not so good. That man who uncovered this information was I, a physician.

FREEDOM OF CHOICE

Even though Greece has socialized medicine, there is a small private sector. All citizens have the freedom of choice for selecting their own doctor - any licensed physician in the country. This liberty is a basic human right that has never changed in this nation. It dates back centuries to a Greek physician, Dr. Hippocrates, the Father of Medicine. Democracy is still alive and well in this small, sovereign country carried on by the free spirit of the people of Mani. The basic freedom of selecting one’s personal physician has been lost in America, but I found it again in Greece! I was like the original Maniates seeking freedom in fleeing from the tyrannical kings of Sparta. Just as they found freedom in Mani, so did I!

CHAPTER 2

LIFE IN AMERICA BEFORE MANI

When I was five years old one day my mother told me:

Menelaos, you are a Maniate.

(Menelaos is pronounced Me-ne'-lus, and Maniate is pronounced "Mahn-ee-ah'-tee.)

Surprised, having never heard that term before I asked, What do you mean by that, Mama? Her reply, tongue in cheek, was Well, Menelaos, you love to be surrounded by women who do nothing but wait on you. I looked at her with a big question mark on my face, So? Well, you sit here at the dinner table and just expect your grandmother and me to keep serving you, and bringing you good things to eat and drink, and anything else that you may want. The only place where men get that kind of service is in Mani.

My mother moved to America with her parents and siblings when she was twelve years old. My father was not a Maniate, although he was a Greek. He was born in Arcadia, the central part of Peleponnesos. They married in the USA later according to her parents’ wishes. In other words it was an arranged marriage (gamos proxeniou in Greek) where her parents, mainly her father, selected the man for her to marry. The union was a good one. My mother spent a lot of quality time with me the first five years of my life. That explains the influence she had on me to this day. When my three much older brothers were in school my mother had the mornings and early afternoons before I started school to spend time with me without interruption.

My parents wanted a little girl to go with their three boys, but to their disappointment after a long wait (7 years) their fourth offspring was I, another boy. Now she had four sons in a row. She very much wanted a girl. (She had to wait another 8 years). However, for the first time she had the time to concentrate on only one child instead of three little guys running around demanding all of her attention. She really did not have the time to spend precious moments alone with them like she did with me as they were all very close in age - 7, 9, and 11 years older. I had the luxury of being like an only child (in the mornings and early afternoons) for the first five years of my life.

She taught me to memorize and recite poems and patriotic speeches that older students learned in Greek School. Being only 5 years old I was too young for school where one had to be 6 to start. At presentations to an audience of parents, relatives, and friends the students in Greek School on holidays and special occasions of the country demonstrated what they learned by reciting poems and speeches in the Greek language. Well, my mother, being rather pushy, talked the school authorities into making an exception and allowed me to present to the listeners as well, in spite of my young age. I was pretty good. I didn’t understand all of what I was saying but through my mother’s persistence and teaching I memorized fine, like a parrot. I recall to this day when she sprinkled powder in my hair one day to make me look like an older man when I recited an emotional and patriotic speech about Greek repatriation. Actually, I liked it when the audience laughed or clapped when I said certain things, many of which I didn’t understand. Afterwards they congratulated me and said, Menelaos, you are so smart, and such a good boy. I knew that I was not smart, and I also knew that I was not a good boy, but hearing that still made me feel good, so I kept it up.

ALTAR BOY

At the age of six I became an altar boy in St. Sophia Greek Orthodox Church in Miami. Again, through the insistence of my mother, Father Thallasites made an exception to the rule that 9 through 12 was the usual age for altar boys. I remember the little black robe that my mother made especially for me. The regular robes hanging back of the side door of the altar for the older boys were way too big for me. Leon (below) the captain of the choirboys was my mentor. He was also the priest’s son. He taught me how to hold that long, thick candle that was taller than me at attention in the altar for hours, as well as how to shake the sensor while leading the priest around the front of the altar during the service. Even today, Leon Thallisites is my mentor at the age of 87. He has the distinction of being America’s oldest, active policeman.

Lt. Thallasites is still on the police payroll in Hialeah, Florida (2013) and still keeps in shape as an athletic trainer putting on clinics locally and nationwide in police academies since he introduced this activity into their training program when he was in his twenties. He still calls to remind me here in Greece to keep in shape at my age. At the age of thirteen I advanced to the choir that was more interesting since girls were also members. No females were allowed in the altar. When I reached the age of fifteen I became more popular as I learned how to be a chanter (a psaltis in Greek) like 70-year-old Mr. Jimmy from Greece, the usual one for years. I also recited the Apostle, the Creed (the Pees-ste’vo), and the Lord’s Prayer every Sunday during the liturgy in the ancient Greek language. I was the first and only boy in the community to do this. I really felt proud and I discovered that it also provided me special favors.

I learned very early in life that if my mother was pleased with me, and she usually was when I did these church things, she was more lenient with me when I was bad. I was not always a good boy. In fact, I was bad a lot. My main problem was that I craved freedom too much and I did not always follow the rules of society, or the family as I went after it with vigor, ignoring the consequences at the time.

BAD BOY

"Menelaos! Oh, there you are you bad boy, exclaimed my mother as she found me. I just wanted to play with Mercer," I protested as she took me by the hand to lead me back home. Mercer Scott was my best friend. He was also 6 years old. He liked me and I liked him. He was my neighbor who lived down the street. Sometimes he would play at my house or I would play at his house. Today, I wanted to play with Mercer at his house in the worst way, but my mother would not let me. She wasn’t mean or anything like that, but sometimes she would not let me do what I wanted to do. There was no reason why she refused me today but she was like that, and once she made up her mind - that was that!

My mother was the boss! She would not change her mind, regardless of how much I protested. I felt trapped! I knew Mercer was waiting for me to play. A high fence that I could not climb over closed in our yard. I had to get out! I finally figured out a way. I dug a hole in the ground ‘under’ the fence when my mother was not around, and crawled underneath in the dirt to the other side. Suddenly, I was free! What a feeling! This made me feel real good! This was the same feeling I had years later when I learned how to fly an airplane as I lifted off the runway into the blue yonder. As a pilot I felt free as a bird in the sky. It was the same feeling!

I ran down to Mercer’s house to play realizing that once my mother discovered what I had done she would come and get me. However, I didn’t worry about the consequences at that time. I would deal with them later I reasoned, but now I would play with Mercer. I never lost that craving for freedom. Meanwhile, I modified many of the ways of pursuing that feeling to stay within the rules of society, but I retained that deep sentiment for the rest of my life.

AMERICAN DREAM

My parents left Greece in search of the American Dream. They found it, had successful businesses and raised 5 children; four boys in a row, and finally one little girl. They were so thankful that their prayers were answered 8 years after I was born that they named her "Dorothea, which in Greek means a gift of God (Doros, gift, and Theos," God). This was my parents’ last try for a girl, and it was successful this time.

My father, above, a farmer in his youth in Greece never had much schooling, but he realized the value of education. His sons all received college degrees and thrived in their individual professions.

My oldest brother, Petros, above, with a Bachelors Degree in Business Administration (BBA) nicknamed Pete went into the restaurant business like our father.

Dimitrios, called Mimi or Jimmy, above, became a Certified Public Accountant (CPA),

and Nicholas, above, also known as Nick became a Chemical Engineer who later was the Quality Control Engineer for the Apollo Moon Shot at Cape Canaveral in Florida.

I became a doctor, a urological surgeon.

My kid sister, Dorothea, (above) was so pretty that a Greek-American physician, a gynecologist, no less, snatched her up before she went to college. They got married and had four children who also became successful in their chosen professions. The oldest was a son, a gynecologist like his father. Right behind him was a daughter who became a registered nurse followed by another daughter who became a very successful journalist and assistant editor of a leading newspaper in Florida, and finally another son who became a physical therapist managing his own clinic.

My sister ended up having 10 grandchildren, almost reaching fourteen like my mother. I have three children, the oldest a daughter who became a pediatrician. I also have two sons and three grandchildren. My older son became an attorney as well as a personal athletic trainer, and later a college boxing coach. The younger one became a pilot and businessman. Therefore, my parents found the American Dream and lived out their lives in America. My father brought his widowed 85-year-old mother from their little farm in Greece to live with us until she died a natural death at the age of 104. She also had a great life in America having her own garden (like a ‘little farm ’in the old country) while enjoying her new love of American beverages, Pepsi Cola and Coca Cola, unheard of at that time in her native country, but she rapidly fell in love with them in America.

Although I was born in the United States I was also raised as a Greek, which was the first language that I learned from infancy as our parents communicated with all of us in their native language. You only speak Greek in the house, she would say. I was always asked by my American friends, How did you learn to speak Greek so young? My answer was Because my mother could not speak English. We attended church every Sunday as well as all the religious holidays without fail where the liturgy and sermons were in Greek. There was no way we could ever opt out of church. My mother would never hear of that. On Sundays we all go to church, no excuses! She said with real meaning. There was no back talk there. Actually, it was a little boring attending the church services because I could not understand the liturgy in the ancient Greek language. However, this changed dramatically, especially after the new priest came to town replacing old and distinguished Father Phousiannis, who came from Greece many years ago, and still could not speak English. Father Demosthenes Mekras at 23 years of age actually changed my life. I was a 15 year old teenager who became quite a student in Greek school because Father Mekras and his wife, Toula, were the teachers.

Father Mekras, a native of Lowell, Massachusetts, was a recent graduate of Pomfret Holy Cross Seminary where he received his formal education in the Greek language. He was ordained to the diaconate in Syracuse, NY, June 1944. His young wife, Toula, also spoke excellent Greek having graduated from a Greek high school in Massachusetts. She also led the practice as choir director every Wednesday night. Father Mekras taught us the liturgy in English, which made the service and sermons more understandable. We had been baptized as infants in the Greek Orthodox faith and celebrated all the religious holidays as well as the traditional customs of the country. Actually, it was a pleasure going to church now that I could understand the liturgy, thanks to the new priest. We had learned English at the age of 6 when entered into the American public school system. However, when American School was out at 3 pm our parents insisted that we attend Greek School classes taught by the priest and his wife from 4 to 6 pm three days a week at the church.

GREEK AFFAIRS IN AMERICA

As we learned to speak, write, and communicate in Greek we also studied the history and customs of the country, such as reciting poems, the national anthem, and speeches commemorating all the important events of the country. As I grew older I remained active in Greek activities such as being a member of the Sons of Pericles, a national boys club of Greek heritage, which incidentally was founded by my Uncle Pete. (I will discuss this later), AHEPA (American Hellenic Education Progressive Association), and GAPA (Greek American Progressive Association) doing charity work for the Greek Church. I was also active in GOYA (Greek Orthodox Youth Association.). I even wore the foustanella at celebrations of Greek Independence day every year.

Here I am acting as a Maniate Freedom Fighter in the front yard of our house in Miami at 17 years of age wearing my foustanella preparing to participate in a March 25th Independence Day celebration. Notice the absence of a mustache. (No way could I ever wear a mustache! Even girls that I did not know laughed at me because I looked so ridiculous with one.) The whole family was active in Greek affairs in America. My older brother Mimi was President of the Miami Chapter of AHEPA as well as Chairman of the Church Board. We boys, including my father, were all active in AHEPA. My mother and sister were members of "The Daughters of Penelope and the Philoptochos," both organizations of Greek-American women. All of these gatherings revolved around the activities of the church. We were also very active in American school. In addition to being on the honor roll my brothers were also active in school politics and sports. My oldest brother Pete was elected President of his Junior High School, Ada Merritt, as well as later being on the Miami Senior High School State champion football team as a running back. He also blew the trumpet in the marching band of the renowned Miami Drum and Bugle Corps. My brother Nick became an outstanding track star in high school setting the Florida State record in the low hurdles, and my other brother Mimi won the Miami Golden Gloves amateur boxing championship at 17 years of age, one of the youngest in the tournament. I was also involved in amateur boxing but I did not make the honor roll until my senior year in high school. That was when I got serious about studying after deciding to become a doctor.

I had heard so much about Mani but never had the opportunity to visit Greece during my life studying and training to become a physician, and later providing for the education and welfare of my own three children. Finally, my wife and I made our first trip to visit the land of my ancestors. I am 83 now and never left Greece after arriving here 14 years ago. I feel good and am in excellent health. I exercise every day with long, frequent walks and runs in the mountains as well as spending time in my own gym doing pushups, jumping rope, and hitting the punching bag. In fact, I feel like always, great! My energy has never changed. The Mediterranean Diet here in Greece of plant food, olive oil, fresh fruit, dairy products (principally, cheese and yogurt), poultry, moderation in meat (total fat 25-35% of calories with saturated fat at 8% or less of calories), fresh vegetables, fruit, chickens, fish, and good clean mountain air as well as a stress-free life keeps me feeling good and healthy. Currently, medical research reveals that this notorious diet also improves brain activity and retards or prevents the onset of Alzheimer's disease in the elderly. And let us not forget the importance of exercise in maintaining a healthy lifestyle! The only problem with this Mediterranean Diet is that it is not the only food that Greeks eat. If they did it would be a different story here. Greeks also like fat-producing food like pasta (spaghetti, macaroni, pitas, etc) and a lot of meat (like souvlakia) from goats, cows, lamb, pigs, and a lot of sweets from those many confectionaries that are everywhere, in addition to those delicious French Fries. Obesity is a problem as in other countries too, even Greece. The many McDonald hamburgers from the US in Greece do not encourage Greeks to keep their weight down. Mountain climbing here in Greece as exercise is healthy and since I never drank or smoked I should live a long life, right? Let’s hope so. My wife and I live in Mani now and we love it! I even opened a private office here and still practice medicine every day. This is nice as it keeps my mind active as well as helping out some people down here.

My wife, a surgical nurse, became a Greek farmer. ("A-gro'-ti-sa" in Greek). She prefers that new profession at this time of her life. She is 14 years younger than I, and in good health as well. My mother was 13 years younger than my father; so like father, like son. Our children are all grown now and doing well on their own in the States. They and their children have visited us here. This is a story of our great life of newfound freedom in Greece, particularly in Mani.

CHAPTER 3

ON TO MANI

Our journey to Mani began when my wife and I got off the ferryboat in Patra, the port city on the west coast of Greece. Piraeus, the usual entrance to Greece by sea was on the other side of the country way out of the way for a ship to sail from Bari, Italy where we drove to from Spain for three days in our used and faithful Fiat Uno that we bought there. We became very attached to our little car that carried us all the way from Spain through France and Italy to Greece. We named her Wanda, short for wandering. Here is a picture of Wanda with my wife, Else, patiently waiting, all loaded up getting ready to embark on the ferryboat at Bari for the trip to Greece.

We could not travel to Greece from Europe by car then because of the on-going Balkan War (1999) forbidding travel there. The Serbian-Kosovo war was going full blast with NATO bombs (72 straight days) forcing Serbia to relinquish control of most of Kosovo ending the partition between the Albanian majority and the Serb-controlled north. Across the Ionian Sea by ship was the only way to safely reach Greece from Italy by car at that time. Patra is the same city my parents (separately) sailed from on their voyages to America almost 100 years ago, and here I was now coming back to that same city. Once we drove down the plank in our faithful little car onto the cement pier we found ourselves in tremendous traffic making it difficult to stop and ask for directions, so we just traveled south until we got out of town. All I knew was my mother was from a village named Krioneri, down south in the country somewhere. Finally, we found a service station for fuel, a map, and directions. We did not have a clue where Krioneri was, just that it was in the southern part of Greece, somewhere in a place called Mani.

SPUR OF THE MOMENT

Actually, our trip was not planned. We came to Greece on the spur of the moment. We flew on a commercial airliner from Miami, Florida to Malaga, Spain (after a plane change in Madrid} to visit my wife's sister and her husband who had retired in Denmark. Recently, they moved permanently to Spain. I closed my offices in Miami following the financial collapse of my medical-legal education business after 12 years of frustration, and 42 years of practicing medicine. I just was not too good a business man, and it did me in! It was so different from practicing medicine. We taught doctors, nurses, hospital personnel and all healthcare professionals the law (also known as risk management) as it pertained to medicine in an effort to reduce the high incidence of medical malpractice lawsuits in the State against physicians and hospitals. However, I lost all my money in the process even though we were successful in lowering the incidence of awards against physicians. People had learned that if they could prove in a court of law that the doctor had made a mistake and caused some damage, they could make a lot of money. Physicians needed to learn more about the law as it pertained to medicine. Many doctors were innocent of negligence but were found guilty in a system that had gone too fair, easily influenced by the better trained plaintiff attorneys who spent their lives suing doctors, many advertising in the newspapers. This subject was not taught in the medical schools yet. There were too many million dollar jury awards against physicians, and many had lost their life's savings as a result. The better trained plaintiff attorneys too easily swayed the juries and many people became unnecessarily rich. It was a game that had gone too far. Of course, if a physician was negligent the patient certainly should be compensated. However, the pendulum swung too much to one side and many innocent physicians were unnecessarily convicted of negligence, and lost their life's assets. I wanted to level the playing field. Medical law was not taught in medical schools yet. The defense attorneys and the physicians were not adequately trained yet to protect their innocence. It was difficult practicing medicine worrying if the next patient with only half of an excuse would sue.

Previously at the age of 52 (I finished medical school at 27) I went to law school at night and became a lawyer 4 years later while still practicing medicine during the day. I became an Adjunct Professor of Law and taught in law school in addition to continuing teaching in medical school as a Clinical Professor. With this background, I started my own private institution to teach law to doctors and medical personnel in hospitals throughout the country. Even though my medical practice was profitable, it was not enough to save the day. So I finally closed down my offices and decided to take a break.

We had just received an invitation from my wife’s sister in Spain to visit, relax for a while and take a breather. I also wanted to see for the first time in my life what the other side of the world was doing. After 3 months of relaxation and rest in Spain we decided to delay our trip back to Miami. This was probably the first time in my life that I had the time to relax without stress. We decided to drive to Denmark where my wife was born and raised before she came to America at the age of 25, some 30 years ago. She still had family and contacts there. A change of pace was what we needed at the time. I also wanted to see the country where my wife was born.

We had no immediate plans at all. Actually, I felt pretty good about the whole thing being free to do what I felt like doing at the time. Our kids were doing well and did not need our financial assistance at all. Perhaps, my wife could get a job as a professional nurse there where she was educated and trained, and support us for a while until we got our bearings of what to do next. I had even thought about attempting to obtain a medical license in Denmark, and possibly practice or teach medicine there for a while. I realized that this would be difficult to accomplish at my age (69) in a foreign country, but what other profession could I pursue, and where? I really did not feel like sitting around doing nothing. I was receiving some money from my US Social Security Fund, so we could get by financially. However, I still wanted to practice the profession that I loved. As always, I was healthy with a lot of energy and wanted to continue helping sick people. If we could not find anything productive and interesting to do we planned to return to Miami and restart my businesses, and try to get it right next time

A DETOUR TO GREECE

While driving towards Denmark we decided to detour a little out of the way to visit Greece. We were on a super highway on the southern rim of France with the Mediterranean Sea on our right. Just before taking a left that would have pointed us up through Europe past Germany to Denmark I remarked, "Else, you know? Straight ahead just past Italy is Greece. My mother