Western Brazil, Brazilia, the Pantanal, Amazonia & Beyond
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Western Brazil, Brazilia, the Pantanal, Amazonia & Beyond - John Waggoner
Western Brazil: Brazilia, the Pantanal, Amazonia & Beyond
John Waggoner
Hunter Publishing, Inc.
Introduction
History
Geography
Language
Population
Culture
Cuisine
Travel Information
Visa & Customs
Airlines
Money
Gratuities
Costs
Time Zones
Dialing Out
Electric Current
Health & Vaccinations
Staying Safe
Driving in Brazil
Brazil’s Top 20
Holidays
Embassies & Consulates
Information Sources
The Central West
How This Section Works
Road Trips
Wildlife Observation
Sport Fishing
Natural Wonders
Culture & Nightlife
Cuiabá
How to Get Here
Getting Around
For More Information
Travel Agencies & Guides
Festivals & Events
On the Transpantaneira Highway
Sightseeing
Where to Eat
Where to Stay
What to Buy
Side-Trips
Nobres
Poconé
Barão de Melgaço
Jaciara & Rondonópolis
Chapada dos Guimarães
How to Get Here
For More Information
Tips For Enjoying the Park
Travel Agencies & Guides
Sightseeing in Town
Adventures in the Park
The Trail of the Waterfalls
The Trail of the Rocks
Paredão de Eco
Cidade de Pedra
Adventures Around the Park
Portão do Inferno
Aroe Jari Cavern
Center of South America
On Horseback
Rappelling
Canyoning
Where to Stay
Camping
Where to Eat
What to Buy
The Pantanal Wetlands
How to Get Here
Planning Your Trip
Safety Tips
What to Bring
Flora & Fauna
Adventures on Land: Pantanal Ranches
Ranches in Aquidauana
Adventures on Water: Pantanal Fishing Lodges
Mato Grosso do Sul
Campo Grande
How to Get Here
For More Information
Sightseeing
What to Buy
Where to Stay
Where to Go Out
Where to Eat
Bonito
How to Get Here
Getting Around
For More Information
Travel Agencies & Tour Guides
Adventures
Adventures on the Water
Rafting & Tubing
Snorkeling
Scuba Diving
Waterfalls
The Kadiwéu Nation
Where to Eat
Where to Stay
What to Buy
Central Highlands: Brasília & the Cerrado
Brasília & the Federal District
How to Get Here
Getting Around
For More Information
Brazil’s most famous architect
Sightseeing
Museums
Government Buildings
Other Sights
Adventures on Land
Adventures on the Water
Where to Stay
Where to Eat
What to Buy
Side-Trip
Emas National Park: Safaris in the Brazilian Savanna
Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park
Flora & Fauna
For More Information
Planning Your Trip
Local Guides & Travel Agencies
Adventures in the Park
<>Rappelling
<>Scenic Overlooks
<>Valley of the Moon
<>Waterfalls in the Park
<>Waterfalls at Rio de Couros
<>Waterfalls at Rio do Macaco
<>Waterfalls at Rio Cristal
Moinho Village
Whale Hill
Where to Stay
<>Alto Paraíso de Goiás
<>São Jorge
Where to Eat
<>In Alto Paraíso
<>In São Jorge
The Amazon
How This Section Works
The Rainforest
Ever-Changing Environments
Wildlife
Tips for Enjoying the Amazon
Natural Wonders
Amazon Beach
Resorts
Wildlife Observation
Amazon Culture
Rugged Adventures
Dining & Nightlife
The Western Amazon: Manaus, Rio Negro & Rio Solimões
Manaus
How to Get Here
Getting Around
For More Information
Staying Safe in the City
Staying Safe in the Jungle
Tour Agencies & Guides
Festivals & Events
Where to Stay
Sightseeing
The Flavors of the Western Amazon
Museums
Adventures on Land
Adventures on the Water
<>Beaches
<>Long River Trips
<>Sport Fishing
Where to Eat
Where to Go Out
Where to Stay
<>Jungle Lodges
What to Buy
Side-Trips
<>The Waterfalls of Presidente Figueiredo & Balbina
<>Staying Safe: Hostile Natives on Highway 174
River Boat Adventures
What to Bring
Deep Jungle Expeditions
Adventures Down the Amazon River
Maués: The Land of Guaraná
Parintins Island: Festival in the Forest
Adventures Up the Rio Negro
Anavilhanas Archipelago & Jaú Park
Novo Airão
How to Get Here
Getting Around
Caboclos: The Dwellers of the Amazon
Jaú Park
Adventures on Land
Adventures on Water
Where To Stay
Where to Eat
What to Buy
Side-Trip
The Mariuá Archipelago
Pico de Neblina
Tips for Enjoying the Park
São Gabriel de Cachoeira
How to Get Here
Where to Stay & Eat
Travel Services
Adventures in Pico de Neblina Park
Side-Trips
Adventures Up the Rio Solimões
Mamori e Juma State Park
Adventures in the Park
Where to Stay & Eat
The Mamirauá Reserve
How to Get Here
Adventures in The Mamirauá Reserve
When to Go
Where to Stay
Eastern Amazônia
Pará
Belém
How to Get Here
Getting Around
Staying Safe
For More Information
Festivals & Events
Tour Agencies & Guides
Sightseeing
Historic Sites
Parks
Museums & Cultural Centers
Historic Churches
Legends of the Amazon
Adventures on the Water
Delta Cruises & River Excursions
Side-Trips
Mosqueiro Island
Icoaraci
The Flavors of the Eastern Amazon
Where to Eat
Where to Go Out
Where to Stay
What to Buy
Ilha de Marajó
When to Go
Getting There & Getting Around
The Towns
For More Information
Sightseeing
Adventures in Marajó
What to Buy
Where to Stay
Lodging in Soure
Lodging in Salvaterra
Ranches
Santarém: the Pearl of the Tapajós
Getting There & Getting Around
For More Information
Sightseeing
Adventures on Land
Adventures on the Water
Where to Stay
Where to Eat
Side-Trip
Alter-do-Chão
Adventures Up the Rio Tapajós
Tapajós National Forest
How to Get Here
Adventures in the Park
Guides
Amazônia National Park
How to Get Here
Itaituba
Adventures in the Park
Where to Stay & Eat
Language
Useful Phrases
Greetings & Salutations
Forming Questions
At the Restaurant
Basic Foods
Getting Around
At the Hotel
Introduction
Brazil is one of the most fascinating countries on the planet. Virtually a continent unto itself, this largest and most important country of South America is also the least understood. Travel here can be the experience of a lifetime, and yet most people don’t know where to begin in planning their trip.
Everyone knows about the Amazon and Carnival, and most have ideas about the sultry city of Rio de Janeiro. People may think of the tropical beaches, the soccer legends, the supermodels, or perhaps they have seen films that expose the hard reality in the favelas like City of God. Many people know about Brazilian coffee or the national drink cachaça, or the churrascaria steakhouses that are opening up around the world.
It seems that every day more and more people are getting to know the rich culture and the arts, the customs and the cuisine. The rhythms of Brazil, the great musicians and singers, and its dances like capoeira, catch everyone’s attention. But in spite of it all, the lyrics of this music and the inspiration for these arts remain an enigma for most of the world.
Unlocking these mysteries for you has been one of the greatest joys of my lifetime.
I had been living in Brazil for nearly a decade before I started writing this book. Working as a foreign correspondent and as the editor of a now defunct English-language newspaper called the Brazilian Post, I had a chance to study this country in detail. It was here that I met my wife and it is here that I was made an honorary citizen in a tiny town called Piancó, in the northeast of Brazil and the state of Paraíba.
As the plane descended the first time in São Paulo I recall being staggered by the size of the country and those endless city blocks. I realized that no matter what I had read, Brazil remained a blank page. The real identity of Brazil, its essence, somehow was different from what I thought I would find. The travel books I had read were hopelessly out of date or even misleading, and they all said the same thing. So I decided to write my own book from what I had seen with my own eyes, about the very best of what Brazil has to offer.
This does not necessarily mean the most expensive places or the best known, nor have I included every city or even every state. The idea all along was not to chart out every square inch, but to suggest ideas based on what visitors actually do – sightseeing, outdoor adventures, dining, shopping, and getting to know the locals. Every destination in this book has a compelling reason for you to visit – whether it be for the natural beauty, for the nightlife, the cuisine, the shopping, or most importantly for the culture.
On every page I have tried to bring you something unique.
In writing this book, I went wandering through cities to find the best restaurants and nightclubs, came face to face with a charging tapir, drifted through the Amazon after my boat ran out of fuel, peered over rusty cannons through cracks in fortress walls, went rappelling and scuba diving in a primordial cave, saw dinosaur tracks in the scalding desert, traveled to indigenous villages and went scrambling through abandoned mines.
Along the way I made some important discoveries. I spoke with locals to get their advice and tried to avoid the clichés that seem always to find their way into the travel literature. I discovered what was interesting and what was not, what was safe and what was not, and have tried to include something in this book for everyone, no matter what your age or interests.
Most of all I found confirmation for what I suspected all along – that Brazil is the most amazing country on the planet. I think that you will agree.
History
Indigenous groups, mainly Tupis and Guarnanis, lived here for as much as 30,000 years, according to some archeologists. We didn’t know much about the way they lived until the arrival of Europeans in 1500.
When Portuguese explorer Pedro Álvares Cabral anchored his fleet of 13 ships at the coast in southern Bahia (in the Northeast Region) he discovered Brazil wood, a valuable resource used to make red dye. It that gave the country its name.
After the coast was mostly mapped out, in 1532 King João III of Portugal divided the country into 15 horizontal bands, called capitanias. Each was the responsibility of a different nobleman. The latter were more or less on their own to explore the lands and make them profitable, but most were unsuccessful. In 1549 João III decided to set up a Colonial government with a strong military and Jesuit presence in Salvador (in the Northeast Region).
At that point, under the governor Tomé de Sousa, colonization became more violent. The colonies produced sugar by use of indigenous and African slave labor, and warfare and disease began wiping out the indigenous population.
The Dutch took control in 1578 of most of the Northeast coast. In the Southeast the Brazilian settlers, many of them by now mestizos, continued to explore inland in mercenary groups called Bandeirantes, searching for wealth and slaves. By 1640 Portugal reconquered the Northeast and continued into the Amazon and the Southern Region. By 1670 gold was discovered, starting another phase of intense migration inland.
Empire & Gold
One after another, gold was found in the Southeast, the Center West and the Northeast. Brazil became the envy of the world. With the wealth came new ideas and, in 1778, a revolution called the Inconfidência started in Minas Gerais but was rapidly crushed.
In 1807 something unheard of happened. The Portuguese royal family fled Europe to escape Napoleon Bonaparte, and moved to Rio. Expanding the borders in a war with Argentina, they continued to face growing internal opposition. In 1822, the royals returned, and crown regent Pedro I declared Brazil independent. Rio de Janeiro became the capital of this new constitutional empire.
After a flurry of hope among Brazilians tired of the old ways, the situation grew more and more chaotic, and Pedro I was forced to abdicate in 1831.
His young son, Pedro II, remained in Brazil and took power in 1839. Opposition began to rise in Europe against the slave trade – on which Brazil relied heavily. Meanwhile, more and more immigrants were pouring into Brazil from all over the world.
In 1865 Paraguay declared war and the Triple Alliance was formed between Brazil, Uruguay (by this time independent) and Argentina. In three years Paraguay was defeated and Brazil expanded into its territory. But the Empire was crumbling.
In 1887, Pedro II, plagued with scandal and losing power, finally fled to Europe. One year later his daughter, Princess Isabel, abolished slavery with the Áurea law and a short while later ended the monarchy and transferred power to a Republic.
Old & New Republics
The new government implemented major social changes, and it was a period of hope and inspiration for Brazil. The gold was long gone and agriculture became the source of Brazil’s wealth: coffee, rubber, and cocoa.
As the country began to industrialize, social problems became more apparent in the growing cities. In 1917 a huge labor strike paralyzed Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, and radical new political parties were taking shape with socialist and anarchistic views.
By 1922, frustration with the corruption and inefficiency of the government led to military uprisings in the cities. The greatest of these was the Prestes Column, a group of lieutenants under the command of Luis Carlos Prestes, which marched through the entire country from 1924 to 1926, before fleeing into exile.
In 1929, the price of Brazil’s main product, coffee, fell drastically and the economy spiraled into ruin. Unemployment and poverty plagued the country, and the solution came in 1930 with the rise of a charismatic politician named Getúlio Vargas, below, who staged a revolution, declared a New Republic and began to rule with an iron hand.
The dictatorship made sweeping changes to help the urban working class, while at the same reducing the power of the unions that threatened it. The economy was departmentalized into separate political groups, which consolidated Vargas as the supreme authority and led to the emergence of Brazil as a global economic power.
Vargas admired the fascist state of Europe at the time, but was thrown into World War II on the side of the Allies after the Nazis sank Brazilian ships. When the war ended in 1945 and fascism was crushed, the dictatorship lost support and Vargas was forced to renounce.
From Dictatorship to Democracy
Under the new democratic government, in 1950 Vargas once again rose to power – this time as an elected President. Incredibly popular among some segments of society, he faced increasing opposition from more conservative officers in the military. On the brink of a military revolution to depose him, Vargas committed suicide in 1954.
Juscelino Kubitschek was elected President in 1955 with a new vision for Brazil. He moved the capital to Brasília (in the Center West Region) and oversaw more social reforms. This was a great period in Brazil, when music like bossa nova gained popularity around the world and the Brazilian soccer team won a dramatic World Cup victory in 1958.
Through successive presidents and a period of cultural growth, the economy continued to decline, and in 1964 the military seized power. This dictatorship was supposed to be temporary but remained in power until 1984, with periods of harsh social repression.
Though the dictatorship had ended, Brazil’s huge foreign debt led to constant crises for the next 10 years. In 1994 President Fernando Henrique Cardoso initiated reforms that almost overnight halted inflation of thousands of percentage points per year. This stability strengthened the young democracy and set the stage for economic prosperity.
In 2002, President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva, above, an opponent of Cardoso, became the first working-class leader. His government struck a balance between economic stability and concern for the poor, particularly in the Northeast, representing a significant milestone in the country’s history. He was re-elected in 2006.
Government & Economy
Brazil is a Federative Republic, with a democratic government and socialized medicine and education. The President and Federal Legislature (Senate and Chamber of Deputies) are elected. The Judiciary is independent. The state and municipal governments have elected executive and legislative bodies.
Despite an effort to streamline the government, it remains highly bureaucratic. For many Brazilians, the highest professional goal is to secure a public sector job, as these provide better wages and job security than the private sector. As most of the jobs are in the cities, every year more and more people move to the urban areas, creating huge strains on infrastructure and social services, and leading to the creation of shantytowns called favelas.
Brazil’s economy is one of the largest in the world and split more or less equally between agriculture and industry. The agricultural sector is the world’s largest producer of coffee, sugar, orange juice, beef, ethanol, and soybeans. The industrial segment is also very important as one of the largest producers of iron and steel, petroleum and other raw materials.
Brazil is a modern country – it is surprising to many first-time visitors just how modern. Brazil is known for its advanced technology such as ultra-deep-water oil drilling, high-tech medicines, a satellite base, a state-of-the-art jet manufacturer, advanced nuclear power plants, and, until recently, the world's longest free-standing bridge, as well as the world's largest hydroelectric dam. Its disproportionate size when compared to its neighbors is controversial, but Brazil has contributed greatly to regional cooperation and stability in recent years.
The economy has grown steadily since hyper-inflation was eradicated, and today Brazil is as prosperous as it has been in many years. Dependence on foreign debt continues to be a weakness for the economy. Wages remain low and, while health care and education are provided free to all citizens, both have major institutional problems.
Most of the former state-owned companies in the telecommunications, mining, transportation and electricity sectors were privatized in the past decade. This has led to greater availability of products and modernization of services, but some segments of society criticize the reduction in jobs and higher prices. While the press is free as a rule, the media is dominated by one large organization which depends heavily on paid advertising by the public sector.
Public security tends to be weak overall with less than 3% of GDP spent on the military and daunting institutional challenges for the police such as low salaries, corruption, and the lack of integration among police divisions. Private security is a huge business that dwarfs the public security sector.
Geography
Brazil is the largest country in all of Latin America, and covers just about half of the total land mass in South America. That makes it the fifth-largest country in the world after Canada, Russia, China and the United States.
Brazilians think of themselves as Americans, or South Americans, and consider people from the United States to be North Americans. The term gringo
applies to any foreigner, is not meant to be offensive, and is used by just about everyone.
Brazil is mostly tropical, with the equator passing through the north and the Tropic of Capricorn passing through the southeast. Average annual temperatures vary around 28°C (82.4°F) in the north and 22°C (71.6°F) in the south. Information on local climates is included in each chapter.
Brazil borders Argentina and Uruguay to the South, Paraguay, Bolívia and Peru to the west, and Colombia, French Guiana, Suriname, Guiana and Venezuela to the north – that is to say, practically every other country in South America. Its border along the Amazon region was only very recently defined, with the help of satellite photos. The Atlantic Ocean forms the longest coastline in South America, extending some 7,367 km (or 4,578