Professional cycling has long been dominated by talk of ‘attacks’, ‘battles’, ‘pain’ and ‘suffering’, and there’s a place in northern Italy where they have experienced their share of all those things in both bike races and wars. Bassano del Grappa’s bloody history isn’t hidden from view. Just walking around the town you’ll notice the bullet holes from two World Wars that still cover the buildings next to the Ponte Vecchio, and when you look up you’ll see the hulking mass that serves as a reminder of battles past and, if you’re in town for a ride, of suffering to come: Monte Grappa.
I don’t need the mountain to remind me of what I’ve signed up for. Starting today’s ride at the headquarters of Basso Bikes, just outside of Bassano, I’m told by several members of the team that I’m in for a tough day in the saddle. Perhaps the most telling revelation is that, despite living and working at the foot of one of the world’s most famous climbs, they each only ride up
