There was a moment during Miu Miu’s spring/summer 2024 show—the last show on the Paris Fashion Week schedule—that served as a kind of thesis about modern women and their relationship with fashion. The runway is a rarefied space for glamour, detachment and fantasy. lt’s often positioned slightly above the watching audience, like the stage in a theatre. It isn’t a place best known for reality and relatability. And yet here was Miuccia Prada sending a model down the runway with an oversized leather tote bag tucked under her arm, the bag spilling over with the familiar paraphernalia of everyday life: a second pair of shoes, an overshirt; the bag covered in trinkets and keychains.
The show was smattered with these little details: models wore multi-coloured adhesive strips on their feet, their hair was oily and a little messed up. The clothes themselves were an ode to the kind of ad-hoc dressing that most women can recognise from their own lives. Wardrobe staples like polo shirts, trench coats and straight-leg jeans were gloriously mixed and matched with glittery elements“love, hoard and rely on”. Opera coats worn over slinky nighties, drawstring shorts and rope-style sandals dressed up with sharp tailored blazers, an embellished evening dress thrown over a lopsided knit.