Gold was discovered around Castlemaine in the mid1800s, causing a population and building boom, so it's not surprising the area has something of a European feel to it. Add in a cool climate and the whole region — from Bendigo in the north to Ballarat further south — give off a Victorianera vibe, in a good way.
I was exploring the area aboard a Honda NT1100. As a Sydneysider I'd ridden down backroads avoiding the Hume Highway as much as possible and felt my spirits lift when I rolled into Castlemaine. If you're riding out of Melbourne, I suggest ditching the boring M79 motorway after Kyneton and taking the Calder Highway (C794) to Malmsbury. At Elphinstone, hang left onto the Diggers Way and then the Pyrenees Highway (B180)