This was an intriguing tasting that threw up some surprises, much like the viñedo singular category itself. Since the 2017 harvest, producers in Rioja have been permitted to classify specific vineyard sites, shifting the focus from the ageing process to the wine’s origin. In this tasting, we assessed wines from the first five vintages produced within this designation.
The highest scoring wines offered the clearest varietal character and sense of place. Among thethe Garnacha-dominant blend of Quiñón de Valmira displayed the red cherry fruit that’s typical of the variety, accented by the flinty freshness of the higher zones of Monte Yerga. Meanwhile, Tronco Negro – from 90-year-old vineyards – exemplified the old-vine concentration that’s demanded by the category (vines must be at least 35 years of age and yield at least 20% below the average for the rest of the DOCa).
