Arriving in late March at my partner’s home in Greece, I was expecting a few days at the house before sailing. But with a period of southerly winds forecast – unusual enough to be worth making the most of – the skipper was itching to get going. Having been east and south to the Dodecanese and Cyclades in recent years, we had decided to head north for a change. Aleko had been preparing Beduin, his Nicholson 32, before I arrived.
From our base in Milina in the Pagasetic Gulf, we were soon out through the Sporades, passing between Skiathos and Skopelos. An early start on the third day saw us passing Gioura by sunrise. It was a long day (62 miles) to Limnos but we enjoyed a good sail once the wind picked up, with Scopoli’s shearwaters our constant companions all day. Bow-riding dolphins and a loggerhead turtle completed the day’s wildlife.
NATURAL WONDERS
We anchored in a small bay in the northwest corner of Limnos. With a shorter distance to Samothraki, there was time to go ashore in the morning to investigate the bizarre rock formations.
Samothraki, the most northeasterly of the Greek islands, is steep-sided and lacks anchorages, so there isn’t much choice but to stay in Kamariotissa harbour. Having enjoyed a lovely walk up a river valley on a previous visit, I was hoping to stay for