It began how all my trips do. Early, and alone, pacing to the bus station, 20 kilo board bag on my head, and wondering how the hell I was going to pay for it.
The 10 bucks in my pocket would cover my bus fare, Amex had my flight, and freelance writing gigs trickling into my inbox would fund the rest.
It’d been two weeks since I’d seen the sun, and even longer since I’d surfed anything with shape and quality. The typically thriving backpacker surf
