The art of guilloché, a mechanical engraving technique, is the most visible form of decorative art in watchmaking today. The term “guilloché” originates from the French word “guillocher,” signifying the act of engraving surfaces with repetitive patterns. Guilloché found its way into watchmaking as a method for adorning watch cases as early as the 17th century. The earliest example was a timepiece with an engine-turned case created by Pierre Duhamel in Geneva in 1680. The machine employed for executing guilloché is referred to as a rose engine, which evolved from the earlier ornamental lathe originally designed for turning wood and other soft materials. The rose engine lathe gets its name from the rose-like patterns it can produce. By adjusting the settings, craftsmen can produce a variety of geometric patterns, such as waves, spirals and intricate designs. Due to their size, high cost, and reliance on manual operation, rose engines were historically the preserve of the affluent.
Beyond the realm of horology, guilloché found expression in the creation of everything from Fabergé’s Imperial Easter eggs to silverware, serving trays and other decorative items. By the end of the 18th century, machines capable of cutting straight lines were also introduced.
Abraham-Louis Breguet began applying the craft to his watches in 1786 and the technique gained widespread popularity in the 19th century.
With the advent of new technologies at the turn of the 20th century, the appeal of guilloché surged as mass production of engine turning machines became feasible. By the 1930s through the 1950s, this intricate technique found its place in wristwatches, notably gracing models from brands such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and even Rolex. While engine turning thrived during the middle of the 20th century, it faced a significant decline by the 1970s. Shifting preferences and the impact of the Quartz Crisis had led to a major cull of engine-turners and the virtual death of the craft.
A pivotal figure in preserving and propelling the art forward into the 21st century was the late George Daniels. Aside from being the foremost exponent of mechanical watchmaking, he began to champion engine turning throughout his work from, which would become the horological bible for generations of watchmakers to come, he dedicated over 30 pages to engine turning alone. It offers a comprehensive guide on operating and setting rose and straight-line engines, providing detailed instructions and insights into the application of engine turning techniques on casebacks, flanks and dials. Derek Pratt, a fellow English watchmaker and close friend of Daniels, also demonstrated remarkable expertise as an engine-turner. Some of his finest engine-turned dials bear the name Urban Jürgensen & Sønner.
