Evening Standard

National fish and chips day: The best in London, from Masters Superfish to the Fryer’s Delight

Source: Thomas Alexander

Like many other classic British dishes, we have immigration to thank for fish and chips — and we’re not talking curry sauce. Fish battered and fried in oil was introduced to Britain by Sephardic Jews from Spain and Portugal in the 16th century, with the first fish and chip shop was opened by Joseph Malin, a Jewish immigrant, in Bow around 1860. The first fish and chip restaurant, meanwhile, was launched by Samuel Isaacs, the first-generation son of Whitechapel Jewish migrants, in 1896.

By the early 20th century, the dish had become so embedded in the national psyche that the British government safeguarded its supply during the First World War, while fish and chips was exempt from rationing during World War II, when Winston Churchill described the combo as “the good companions”.

Cod has historically been preferred in the south of England and haddock in the north, though these days it’s a matter of personal taste rather than geographical loyalty. Tender cod contrasts with crunchy batter and its delicate flavour makes a bland conduit for salt and vinegar; haddock has a fishier taste and a firmer texture that doesn’t flake apart as much, so is arguably better for a takeaway fish supper eaten on the go.

, however — — doesn’t think London has a handle on the dish. “One of my beliefs is that you should always be able to see the sea when you have fish and chips,” the Galway Girl singer , when asked to name the he thinks are most overrated, “so anywhere

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