Some labelled it ‘expressive minimalism’ because it gives the understated wardrobe a dash of verve, which is usually lacking from the ‘rigorous’ approach. Labels aside, the latest round of shows on both sides of the Atlantic were dominated by discreet, quiet luxury characterised by rather muted colours and details that, though never too showy, give the look and the entire collection an ‘edge’, like when a hint of spice is added to a dish. The trend showcases a softened severity, a cleanness with some intentional smudging. With a balance of masculine and feminine tailoring almost always at the heart of every outfit, it is the contrasting materials, ruffles, ruches and draping, the many facets and uses of knitwear, and the refined embroidery that gives movement and verve to a trend that hates noise and ostentation and wants to keep things simple. offers a similar classic and sophisticated touch, with the focus on a golden-era diva’s allure, going as far back as the early decades, turning their stories into theatrical, visionary outfits, packed with showy details, whether prints, embellishments or accessories, and a bolder colour palette that is not too bright but more intense than the neutrals that brands are getting us used to. Behind these collections lies imagery that gives freedom of style and expression, a sort of pass that allows you to get off the beaten track and let yourself go, at least a little. To call it maximalism is perhaps exaggerated, but it does make us nostalgic for when fashion was crazy and colourful, perhaps less wearable but capable of generating dreams and excitement.
