Gripping the roof handle and staring silently over the dashboard, I avert my gaze from the 160ft drop to my left. There’s just six inches of dirt road standing between us and the cliff edge: one wrong move from our driver, and the pickup truck we’re in is going straight into the Sea of Cortez.
The first time I visited Mexico’s Baja California, the world’s second-longest peninsula, it was on a backpacking trip through Central America. I hitchhiked and bussed over 650 miles from Tijuana, on the border with the US, to Todos Santos, just short of Baja’s most southerly point, Cabo San Lucas. Travelling along the Carretera Transpeninsular, I stopped at every major town along Baja’s main highway, wine-tasting in Ensenada, whalewatching in Guerrero Negro and swimming with sea lions on Espiritu Santo Island.
During those long drives,
