London’s most expensive restaurant has its least visible presence. Sushi Kanesaka lies behind a dark, unmarked wooden door in Mayfair’s 45 Park Lane hotel, the exterior of which also fails to advertise the place. Further confusing matters, the entrance leads off a private room in the hotel’s Bar 45, whose dim, louche, ’50s Italian nightlife vibe clashes with the occasional appearance of a Japanese in traditional dress as she prepares for one of the evening’s two services. At which point
