Some journeys are mere trips, while others become transformative experiences. A weekend retreat to Ulum Moab falls firmly into the latter category. It’s a long but easy drive from Denver to get there—a straight shot west on I-70 over the Utah border, then hang a left and roll into Moab. I made the trip with a friend last fall to catch the tail end of the resort’s inaugural season after the heat of summer abated. What we found
