International Traveller

State of being

I am camped on the bow of MS Koningsdam anticipating the thunderous crack of a tidewater glacier calving as we cut a path through the icv-cold waters of Glacier Bay National Park.

Two park rangers boarded in the early hours of the morning and now commandeer the ship's speakers. “The brilliant blue of the ice will shine bright in this fog,” one of them announces as we journey closer to Margerie Glacier. I m five days into a seven-day roundtrip cruise of Alaska s Inside Passage from Vancouver, and this is the headline attraction.

It's one of only two ways to explore the protected waters of this roadless national park (the other is by air). You'll need to be on one of the two cruise ships allowed to enter here each day over the summer months

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