The sun was rising through the dusty haze of a city waking up with a collective hangover: the result of a day of kite flying followed by beer and a night sky filled with ascending lanterns. Jaipur had been celebrating Makar Sankranti, the Hindu festival marking the sun crossing the Tropic of Cancer on 14 January, which coincides with its International Kite Festival. But now, with the party over, I began a journey that was to set me on a literary adventure I’d
