DODECANESE
In the southeast Aegean, farthest from the mainland and often in sight of the Turkish coast, the Dodecanese only joined Greece in 1947 after decades of occupation. It’s this turbulent history that has given these islands their striking individualism — and what sets their culture and architecture apart
WALK ON A VOLCANO
NISYROS
According to Greek mythology, it was Poseidon who seized a chunk of Kos and hurled it on top of a fiery Titan called Polyvotis — creating the volcanic island of Nisyros, with its enormous, sulphurous caldera. The volcano is active, but travellers can still walk across its warm crust — it last erupted in 1888 and is carefully monitored. It can be visited on a day trip from nearby Kos, but it’s worth sticking around to explore the island’s little capital, Mandraki, with its colourful houses and Byzantine churches; the nearby thermal spring at Loutra; and the lofty village of Emporios, with its ruined Byzantine castle, natural cave sauna and mesmerising views over the caldera. nisyrosgeopark.gr
WANDER A GHOST VILLAGE
TILOS
For centuries, the residents of Tilos built their homes inland, safe from marauders. But in the 1950s, when the villagers of Mikro Chorio found their wells running dry, they decided to relocate to the island’s port area — taking their roofs, doors and windows with them. Until recently, the only signs that Mikro Chorio ever existed were the whitewashed church and fawn-coloured stone walls, which snake over the hillside and act as a playground for goats. Now, though, one ruined home has been renovated and turned into an atmospheric summer bar. From 11pm when it opens, a shuttle bus runs here from nearby Livadia — and the sound of chatter and clinking glasses once again fills this ghostly village.
REACH NEW HEIGHTS
KALYMNOS
For a long time, the island of Kalymnos was famous for one thing: sponge-diving. But in 1996, a new focus emerged, when Italian rock climber Andrea di Bari, on holiday with his family, observed the island’s towering limestone cliffs. Before long, this isle emerged as a capital for climbing. Kalymnos now has over 4,000 routes for all abilities, and companies such as Climb in Kalymnos offer dedicated beginners’ courses. But it’s not all about sports here, as the island has retained its old-world charm. Wander the ruins of the Byzantine town of Kastro, high on the mountainside, or head east to Vathys and its fjord-like valley, flanked by fragrant citrus groves. climbinkalymnos.com
EXPLORE A WOODLAND OASIS
RHODES
The island of Rhodes is best known for two historic sites — walled Old Rhodes Town, built by the crusading Knights of St John; and Lindos, a pretty 15th-century sea captains’ town set beneath an ancient, vertigo-inducing acropolis. But it’s also popular for its broad, sandy beaches, and the fact it receives over 300 days of sunshine each year. If you can tear yourself away from the sea, visit Seven Springs, a refreshing woodland oasis in the north east of the island, reached by wading through a dark, 180m-long irrigation tunnel. The effort is worth it: refreshing swims, a tall waterfall and pine-shaded hiking trails await, and there’s a taverna frequented by roaming peacocks. 7springs.gr
PEDAL THE ‘BICYCLE ISLAND’
KOS
Greece’s ‘bicycle island’, Kos has over 6,500 bikes to hire and is also crisscrossed with cycling trails, including a new eight-mile path that takes in the coast. When Kos’s Italian colonisers departed in 1943, they left their bikes behind, which were swiftly adopted by the locals. One of the best sights to explore by bike are the ruins of Asklepion, two miles outside Kos Town and easy to reach on two wheels. In 430BC, Kos native Hippocrates, the ‘Founder of Medicine’, created this healing sanctuary, which is arranged in terraces along the hillside. But you don’t have to be a keen cyclist to enjoy Kos — the island is also generously endowed with sandy beaches, and Kos Town is known for its crusader, Ottoman and Italian architecture set beneath clouds of fuchsia bougainvillea. idealrentals.eu
TR AVEL THROUGH TIME
KARPATHOS
One of the Dodecanese’s highest mountains effectively divides Karpathos in two. At the island’s northern end, the remote hamlet of Olympos was isolated until 1979, when a road was built through the wild terrain. Local women still wear flowery scarves and long skirts — plus enormous necklaces of gold coins on special occasions — and they keep to many traditional ways, baking bread in communal ovens and embroidering textiles. Stay overnight here, in a cosy apartment at Irene’s House or Olympos Archipelagos, with its sea views, to get a feel for Olympos’s old-world magic, and don’t miss a traditional laouto (lute) performance in the taverna. ireneshouse.com archipelagoskarpathos.com
DANA FACAROS
EYEWITNESS
FORGOTTEN PATHS
Walking the old donkey trails on Symi lets travellers discover the forested interior of this small Dodecanese island — and meet its resilient, resourceful locals.
Words: Angela Locatelli
“Ela!” says Valantis Makrakis with a huff, mid-step, one hand clutching his side, the other lifted in greeting. A young man nods back as he trots down the sloping street, followed by a litter of cats. “Kalimera! ” Valantis says again
