Until the end of the 19th century, much of what is today considered northern Thailand was an independent kingdom. Lanna (‘Million Rice Fields’) had its own distinct culture, language and cuisine. And the latter certainly remains true today. Northern Thai food leans towards savoury, tart and bitter flavours. Soups and grilled dishes are common, and influences stem from the various ethnic groups that inhabit the mountains of the region, as well as from neighbouring Myanmar and Chinese Muslims who passed by on trade routes.
The region remained largely remote and autonomous until 1916, when the first leg of the northern train line from Bangkok was completed. This terminated in the city of Lampang; it would reach Chiang Mai, the north’s largest city, less than a decade later. There are quicker ways of travelling, but the train is a fascinating way to explore, linking big-hitter destinations and smaller provincial capitals, allowing you to slow down and take notice of the region’s unique cuisine.
Take the sleeper from Bangkok and wake up in Chiang Mai,in the city’s Muslim quarter, which unites the produce and dishes of the area’s minority groups — the so-called ‘hill tribes’, Chinese, Burmese and Shan, as well as Muslims. The Muslim quarter is also home to the city’s most famous dish: khao soi (two types of noodles in curry broth). A mild version is sold by halal vendors at the edge of the market, such as and If you’re craving khao soi on any other day of the week, tack on a trip to the riverside Fa Ham area, where Buddhist vendors and have been slinging flavoursome bowls for decades.
