Huge fans stutter on once-white walls. A lady wearing red lipstick and a silk dress settles into a plastic chair and points at tiny saucers on the marble table in front of her. There are two or three pork dim sum on each; she jabs one with a small fork, swipes it through a sauce that matches her outfit and pops it into her mouth. It’s 6.30am.
In the southern Thai town of Trang, breakfast has been underway for several hours. And here at Sin Jiew, one of the city’s most popular dim sum joints, school children, newborns, dogs and office workers gather before dispersing to continue their day. It’s still dark outside, where roadside stalls smoke with tiny pancakes and large chunks of dough bob in pots of scalding-hot oil.
Trang is a pilgrimage site for food obsessives — mostly from Bangkok but
