The Critic Magazine

Open season

OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS, I’ve written about cooking rabbit pie, frying up squirrel goujons, and making pigeon Wellington. There have been plenty of other carnivorous episodes, so many in fact that I’ve forgotten lots of them. But what I haven’t shared is that for all the joy those culinary adventures have brought me, there’s been pain too.

There were all those vegans who didn’t eat my rabbit arancini, I had to order a Hawaiian

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