MMM - The Motorhomers' Magazine

France like it used to be

France | TRAVEL

The early spring weather had been pretty dire as far south as the Loire Valley, with gales, heavy rain and even a ferocious hailstorm, so for once we didn't linger in the north, but spent more hours on the road until the weather started to warm and brighten as we approached the Lot.

On so many previous visits to France we have avoided stopping for long in this southern region because the weather has always been too hot for us to walk around the historic towns and villages.

This time we were so glad to see the sun again that we decided to slow down and spend a few days exploring.

After a picnic lunch on the banks of the Isle, we walked along the river for half a mile or so to reach the old centre of Périgueux. Although the cathedral suffered overrestoration in the nineteenth century, the surviving medieval houses nearby have been much more sensitively refurbished and make this quarter very attractive for a wander. One house (supposed to have been used by Bertrand du Guesclin when he was in charge of French forces fighting the English in the Hundred Years War) even boasts Romanesque arches, so had obviously managed to survive for almost a thousand years.

On the outskirts of the town, the remains of the Roman town of Vesunna are even more ancient. Unfortunately, the museum was closed (as is

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