Wilderness

TARARUA DREAMING

OFF the Beaten TRACK

Mention the Tararua Range to veteran trampers and it will evoke memories of remote river gorges, steep spurs, goblin forest, historic huts and razor-sharp ridges. Storms sweep the tussock tops about 200 days a year, increasing the risk of hypothermia and making navigation difficult.

There was unfinished business in those hills north of Wellington. Years earlier we had attempted a Northern Crossing in winter, but when we crested the spine of Te IkaaMāui at dusk we were in a whiteout, and failed to find Arete Biv. We spent a tentless night shivering in our sleeping bags.

Perhaps this time we would find the hut? Perhaps we would find redemption?

My friend Malcolm Peak likes bagging peaks; I was born in the Hutt Valley, so I like bagging huts. To satisfy our desires, our next trip would be among a plethora of peaks and would darken the door of a dozen huts.

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