FORD FIESTA
Headlight levelling
Q The headlight levelling has not worked since I bought my 2007 Ford Fiesta Mk6 1.25. I’ve replaced the headlights with new ones (Depo brand) mainly due to discoloration. But still the headlight levelling does not work.
Can you guide me through the process of finding out why they don’t work please?
I’ve a multimeter and a Foxwell NT301 OBDII reader.
Russell Woodcock
A The first test where the headlamp levelling is not operating on either headlamp is to check the voltage supply to the headlamp switch. If the headlamp flash works, then this is deemed to be OK.
The next test is to ensure the earth circuit is functioning correctly. To do this the connector should be disconnected from the headlamp switch and the circuit tested by using an ohm meter between pin number 10 and earth – the resistance should be less than 2 Ohms. If it is not then the circuit needs to be checked.
If the feed and earth circuits of the headlamp switch are good, then there is a possibility that the headlamp switch is at fault. Testing for any power from pin 1 should indicate if this switch is faulty. The wire coming from the switch to the adjustment motor should be blue/red and goes directly from the switch to the adjustment motors in the headlamp. This should also be checked for continuity.
FORD FIESTA
Belt-in-oil
Q My 2016 EcoBoost 1.0-litre Fiesta is a keeper as it is the last of the zero road tax models, therefore I’m looking for future reliability into my retirement! Current mileage is around 64,000 miles.
I see that the 2018 onwards EcoBoost 1.0-litre engines have ditched the belt-in-oil idea and have reverted to chain drive and appear to be the same engine otherwise.
I imagine that it would have been sensible for the Ford engineers to make the chain sprockets interchangeable then, with the existing engine components in order to save manufacturing time and cost.
Would you happen to know then, if the new chain and sprockets are indeed interchangeable with the belt-in-oil engine?
Alternatively, would you know if the whole 2018 chain-engine is swappable for my belt-in-oil engine?
Bruce Selby
A The engine in your Fiesta should be the SFJC series which uses a timing belt running from the crankshaft to drive the camshaft pulleys – this belt does run in the lubrication system and so does run in the oil.
The later engine (B7JA) is a different design and although it uses a similar setup, the belt and pulleys are replaced with a chain and sprockets. The two engines do also have a few subtle differences and although both units are three-cylinder OHC engines, the compression ratio and valve operation are different.
I am not aware of any company that can supply a conversion kit to replace the belt with a chain and although the engine could be replaced with the later version, I would suspect that it would be more financially viable to simply trade up to a newer model.
Although the newer version does attract an annual road fund licence fee of £180, the insurance company would need to be notified of any engine swap, and this could place your Fiesta in the category of modified, increasing the insurance substantially.
The alternative would be to ensure that the oil was replenished regularly and that the belt is replaced at a shorter interval than the 150,000 miles or 120 months recommended. Looking at the road fund licence advantage your Fiesta has – this can of course balance out the running cost of your Ford against the newer model.
FORD MONDEO
Gearbox issues
I have to inform you that I have
Q finally given up on my Corolla Verso. When I took it for a tracking and balance none of the local garages could release the rusted nuts to complete the tracking, along with the faulty rear windows and the A/C switch problems I decided to sell and it has been taken in p/x for a 2006 Mondeo 2.0 LX automatic with only 50,000 miles – the previous owner had retired from driving.
Could you please advise, I have read that this model can have problems with the autobox after 60,000 miles – is this true or just a rumour. Is there anything I can do to ensure I have no problems. My Toyota had done 145,000 without any mechanical problems except the usual wear and tear items.
Thanks for all your previous help and advice regarding my Toyota Verso and I hope to have fewer problems with my new purchase. Geoff Allen
A From the details I have the 2006 Mondeo has a standard type automatic gearbox with electronic control, and not the direct-shift gearbox which has been known to give problems. The gearbox oil should be changed at 75,000 miles or six-year intervals, and if this has not been carried out I would advise that this should be done.
The gearbox takes 7.5 litres of ESPM-2C166-H oil and is drained from a bung in the base. There is a level plug in the side and the autobox can be refilled via the breather at the top.
Due to the capacity of the torque converter, the oil change will normally only take around four litres of fluid, and if the drained oil is slightly off colour, I would recommend a second oil change after fifty to one hundred miles, to ensure the old oil is flushed from the system.
FORD FOCUS
Rusty discs
Q The brake discs on my 2017 Focus RS have become corroded. I like to get it perfect without adding mileage on the odometer. Do you have any advice, I have enclosed a picture of the corrosion.
Ed Cahill (USA)
A Looking at the picture you sent, it may be that the corrosion at this stage is not too bad. This will wipe away when the vehicle is used, and gentle braking is applied. This is one of the problems with a low-mileage vehicle and is a difficult one to prevent.
Ensuring the brake discs are dry and clean after washing the vehicle is a good measure, and always giving the motor a short drive after cleaning to ensure that the brake discs are dry is advisable.
If the vehicle is garaged this will help prevent the build-up of rust on the brake discs (rotors) but it will need to be dry when put away. Any water on the brake discs will allow the start of the surface rust to appear.
As mentioned, a light coating of surface corrosion is not detrimental to the running of the brakes, but allowing this to get deeper into the metal, may then promote a speedier deterioration of the brakes.
One product that has been recommended to use after cleaning
