Evening Standard

The best dim sum in London, from Din Tai Fung to Dim Sum Duck

Source: Rusne Draz Photos

The notion that good things come in small packages is nowhere more deliciously exemplified than with dim sum, the bitesize Chinese buns and dumplings traditionally only eaten in the afternoon and accompanied by a pot of tea. The tradition emerged in the 10th century in the port city of Canton (modern-day Guangzhou), where teahouses sprang up catering to travellers in search of a couple of light bites to go with their cup of cha.

There are more than 1,000 dim sum dishes originating from Guangdong province, of which Guangzhou is the capital, though Chinese restaurants in London tend to restrict themselves to a core roster of about 50. A dim sum meal should involve a mix of steamed, fried and baked dishes, which usually come in portions of three or four; ordering around 12 dumplings per hungry person tends to be a good rule of thumb.

Classic dishes to look out for include har gau (steamed, pleated prawn dumplings), siu mai (ground pork dumplings, open at either end), baked pork or venison puffs like mini Cornish pasties and cheung fun, slithery rice-noodle rolls filled with shrimp, beef, roast pork or vegetables, sitting in a puddle of soy sauce.

The phrase “dim sum” in Cantonese roughly translates as “touch the heart” and dim sum devotees are fiercely loyal to their most treasured restaurant. Weekend brunches are especially popular with Chinese families; a late weekday lunch makes a smashing solo treat while some of London’s most famous dim sum practitioners serve the small plates into the evening, too. From Mayfair Michelin stars to

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