s a kid, I had a reputation at restaurants for grabbing one of those foil-wrapped butter packets, opening it like a present, and eating it straight in two bites. My parents didn’t love this behavior, but I sure did. At the time, I couldn’t imagine a more delicious food, and today I’d still list butter among my favorite things to eat. I’m in good company. I remember watching acclaimed food writer Jeffery Steingarten many. The first dish from one of the competing chefs was good bread and salted butter. You might have expected Steingarten to ding the chef for lack of creativity or skill. Instead, he said it was unfair to serve bread and butter. After all, what can beat it?
