Cook's Illustrated

The Art of Rendang

Rendang is an nth-degree art form. The Indonesian word refers to both the dish and the technique where food is taken to the farthest possible point of concentration, to a stage of cooking that defies categorization.

To make it, cooks in and around the province of West Sumatra simmer beef (or other proteins including buffalo, chicken, tempeh, seafood, or eggs) with coconut milk; spices; and a fragrant paste of alliums, chiles, and citrusy herbs for hours. As the pot bubbles, the beef softens, the luscious milk evaporates, and the aromatics sizzle in the flavorsome fat left behind.

What distinguishes rendang from related Southeast Asian preparations such as curries is that you keep cooking it. You cook it so much that the pot’s contents not only concentrate but undergo Maillardization and caramelization, resulting in tender meat hugged by a tight, unctuous paste whose flavors and fragrance far exceed the intensity of any other braise. The steamed rice, juicy raw vegetables, sambal, and crisp

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