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This is Matahi Drollet, a 25-year-old Tahitian surfer riding one of the world’s scariest waves, Tahiti’s Teahupo’o. Widely regarded as one of the best surfers in the area, he’s the same age as my son, and is the
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This is Matahi Drollet, a 25-year-old Tahitian surfer riding one of the world’s scariest waves, Tahiti’s Teahupo’o. Widely regarded as one of the best surfers in the area, he’s the same age as my son, and is the
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The Essentials of Surfing: The authoritative guide to waves, equipment, etiquette, safety, and instructions for surfriding
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