The little Honda CRF300Ls are in their element as we race up the gravel ladder. It’s the first time in weeks our bikes have had the chance to stretch their legs and chew dirt and they’re making the most of it. Alissa’s cheeky smile pokes out the side of her helmet as she blips the gas and spits stones from her rear tyre to stop me from overtaking. We get on the footpegs, wring the throttles and the single-cylinder engines purr in excitement. It’s as if we’re releasing these machines back into the wild and onto the terrain they were built for.
We make it to the last rung and finally reach the viewpoint over Salmon Glacier – the largest glacier in the world accessible by road.
We saw a photograph of the gargantuan ice snake curling its way down the mountain years ago and