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LETTER FROM Onseepkans

On long road trips, I often pull over at places where people stand or sit while waiting for lifts. In the leafier parts of our country, these are always under a tree. In the Northern Cape, however, there are no such luxuries. Here, the best a hitchhiker can hope for is a road sign that might provide a slice of shade.

In June last year, I crossed the border from Namibia at Onseepkans and drove south along a dentistry-busting road into

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