A wander here helps to fill in some of the blanks, weaving the threads of my sublime natural experiences into a larger, more meaningful picture of all that this destination truly is.
The carpark is empty when we hit the trail, climbing gently above a gully of Darwin woollybutt trees still dusted with early morning mist. Anbangbang’s sweeping rock art galleries tug for my attention, but I’m chasing the rising sun — and my daughter too — towards Gunwarddehwarde Lookout, high above on the escarpment edge. The heady, honeyed scent of fern-leaved grevilleas hangs potently in the air, and treading softly, a black wallaroo and I startle each other around a bend. Finally, we are standing atop the rocky bluff known as Burrungkuy and peering out across Kakadu’s rugged stone country as the sun warms the sky.
Beyond this viewpoint, the Barrk Sandstone Walk sets a surprisingly lonely six-hour-long challenge, looping past the sculpted Enchanted Castles and Balancing Rock to remote, rarely visited Nanguluwurr (Narng-oo-loo-war)
