“THIS IS the one interview that Sir Rocco wanted to do,” I am told as I am introduced to the instantly recognisable hotelier in the Kipling Suite of Brown’s Hotel in Mayfair. It is quickly apparent that he is at home not only in his hotels but also in his own skin, and it puts one immediately at ease.
In the hospitality trade, there is a knack for making guests feel comfortable and special. In his autobiography the late Lord Forte, Sir Rocco’s father, recalled restaurateur John Quaglino, who was apt to tell his guests, “You know you are my