BUTTER is enjoying a moment. This everyday ingredient—once reviled as being terribly unhealthy—is being seen in a new light in Britain. Nowadays, a meal at a fashionable restaurant is likely to start with that fundamental treat: good bread and good butter. Butter’s texture and mild flavour means that chefs can add their own touch to it: whipping it or flavouring it with in-vogue additions, such as kimchi, sriracha or wild garlic.
Stephen Harris, chef-proprietor of the Michelin-starred The Sportsman in Kent and a pioneering proponent of a locavore approach to British cuisine, has championed butter since 2004, long before its current modishness. ‘Butter was taking a health battering at the time. I think we were the first restaurant in the world to make our own
