W&H travel special
1 Explore INDIA
Michelle Hather digs into the country’s lesser-explored north on an expert guided tour
Like its food, India is a country of infinite flavours. Cool as raita, fiery as vindaloo, no two regions are alike – but together they deliver a feast. So, how to choose from this menu?
From the spiritual heart of Amritsar to the serenity of the Himalayas and New Delhi – where people-crammed markets sit alongside monuments, grand avenues and gardens – northern India has always appealed to me. An escorted tour with a seasoned expert operator seemed the perfect way to go.
The thrills of a safari
Our tour began in Punjab, a vast state skirting Pakistan’s border. Arriving at the rush of evening in the old city of Amritsar, its gilded Golden Temple glowed against the dark sky and was reflected in the surrounding holy waters. Tens of thousands of local Sikhs worship here and, early next morning, we witnessed its extraordinary langar – a bustling kitchen staffed by volunteers to feed the devotees. Mountains of veg were being prepped, curry was simmering by the gallon and piles of dishes were being washed.
Changing gears, our next stop was a Jungle Book-worthy animal adventure, Punjab style. Kipling’s story is set in central India, but at Kikar Lodge, in the Shivalik foothills, we had a thrilling jeep safari in search of leopards, wild boar and antelope. Animals proved elusive, but we were quickly consoled by the scenic expanse and a couple of sunset G&Ts around the campfire.
Himachal Pradesh is another of northern India’s essential sights, and where we were headed next. The magnificent 4th-century fort at Kangra was devastated by an earthquake in 1905, and walking beneath its ancient archways, you sense the ghosts of its once thriving settlement. Further along vertiginous Himalayan roads, Dharamshala – home of the Tibetan government-in-exile – awaited, as well as McLeod Ganj, where His Holiness the Dalai Lama now resides.
In yet another bucket-list moment, we breathed in serenity amid prayer chants before exploring the maze of streets in search of Tibetan handicrafts. That night, we bedded down high in the mountains at Rakkh Resort, a gorgeous boutique hotel. Fuelled by a dream to support locals, its founders created a peaceful retreat staffed by neighbouring villagers. Guests can visit the community, tour local tea fields and enjoy delicious food. We feasted on dosas (thin crepes) and vegetable sambal for breakfast, creamy dal and roti for lunch, and butter chicken and coconut fish curry for dinner.
The views of the Himalayas from the hotel’s infinity pool at sunset were as spectacular as the food – one dip and I felt utterly recharged.
Every inch of Indian road provides fascinating scenes and our 200km journey to Shimla, formerly the summer capital of the British Raj, flew by. We arrived to see the grandeur of the venerable Viceregal Lodge – a vestige of British rule – and Shimla’s famed Oberoi Cecil hotel, which has a wonderfully elegant atrium and served up the best cup of tea of the trip.
The final destination, reached by a first-class rail journey, was thrilling in its own right. Metropolis Delhi fizzes and bubbles with a blend of history and modernity. In
