For a long time, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has been ‘a safe banker’, as judge Cat Lomax said. ‘A wine you could pick up knowing exactly what to expect in the glass.’ The top-line results (see ‘The scores’, below) suggest a solid tasting, but the recentrelease wines came in for some strong criticism from our panel, over 2.5 days of judging. We all agreed, on the basis of this tasting, that there was no longer a guarantee that expectations of ‘pungent aromatics and concentrated flavours’ would be met.
Lower-priced examples, particularly from Marlborough, disappointed. We surmised that expanding plantings to the flat plains to increase production had delivered lacklustre, simple wines. In addition, early picking – also for commercial reasons – has necessitated an increased use of residual sugar to try to balance underripe wines, often resulting in artificial or cooked flavours, rather than fresh.
Freddy Bulmer said: ‘Too many wines were lacking texture and depth. Clean and correct, but with no personality and barely reflecting the grape.’ For consumers looking for a sub-£10 wine, these may tick a box, but they don’t do anything to differentiate New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from competing Chilean, South African or French examples.
But there were some positives, too. All six of our Outstanding wines had judicious barrel ageing. They earned their high marks by ‘pushing the boundaries’, said Lomax. They were not merely excellent examples of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but world-class white wines that would enhance any cellar or table. ‘It’s a clear argument for well-used oak,’ said Bulmer, ‘but also a sign that less commercially significant styles exhibit more personality and sophistication than those driven by market demand.’
The results may not paint vintage 2023 in a great light, with no Golds and only 12 Silvers among 115 wines entered, but Jones believes they will evolve well, particularly those with some oak ageing. ‘Be prepared to tuck them away for a few years, as at this price point they will become a worthwhile investment.’
For Marlborough (87% of entries), Bulmer noted: ‘It was clear which were the commodity wines and which were the quality wines. But the success and reputation of the genuine quality-first winemakers hinges on what the big commodity producers are putting out there. And my concern is that they are making wines with far less charm and drinking pleasure than they ever have
