Cook's Illustrated

A Celebratory Seafood Stew

In Catalonia, a “zarzuela” can be one of two things: a type of Spanish musical theater production that involves storytelling, song, and dance or a hearty stew loaded with seafood in a spiced tomato broth. The latter took its name from the former, and it’s easy to understand why: Like a theatrical spectacular, a pot of zarzuela is vibrant, exciting to behold, and downright applause-worthy.

On the eastern coast of Spain, zarzuela is cobbled together from whatever seafood is freshest at the market that day—from monkfish to clams to prawns to scallops—and served as a festive centerpiece for gatherings or special occasions. An abundance of seafood feels undeniably celebratory, but it presents a challenge for the cook: When all the fish are cooked in the same pot yet each has a slightly different cooking time, it’s difficult to achieve uniform, perfect doneness throughout the stew. In my recipe, I’d need to be

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