Great Walks

THE AGONY & THE ECSTASY

I don’t know exactly how it came into my possession, but I do remember finding the US quarter in my foreign currency drawer and noticing for the first time the design stamped on its reverse face. The image was of legendary 19th century environmentalist and outdoorsman John Muir, posing manfully before Half Dome while a California condor wheeled overhead. I’d long wanted to add the John Muir Trail (JMT) to my hike collection, and this small coin seemed like a billboard from fate telling me to wait no longer. The time was now - 2023 would be my JMT year!

It was also, coincidentally, the year with the highest snowfall ever in California’s Sierra Nevada mountains.

Best foot forward

“You won’t be alone for long,” they said. “You’ll soon become part of a ‘Tramily’.” Come mid-July, I was standing at Happy Isles trailhead in Yosemite National Park, surveying my surroundings. The path was heaving with people, exactly none of whom resembled future Trail Family members. Every one was a day hiker, heading up to Nevada Falls or Half Dome. With my 15kg pack, trekking poles, and a posture befitting the seriousness of a 220-mile (352 km), 16-day wilderness hike, I stood out like a sore thumb. Nevertheless, I

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Great Walks

Great Walks7 min read
Home On The Range
THE Stirling Ranges are one of the most notable mountain ranges in Western Australia and arguably the most accessible due to their close proximity to Perth, located 337km southeast of the city. This makes for a hiker’s paradise, with six trailed peak
Great Walks3 min read
Track Tested Treats
Every summer the family goes on holidays to an island on the Hawkesbury River, just south of Sydney and whenever we’re there my daughter (now 14) and I row across the river on a kayak to a part of the mainland not accessible by car. We were given a h
Great Walks2 min read
A Day Out With Dinosaurs
THERE’S a stretch of sand where the tide lifts and lowers stories. With each ebb and flow, the passage of time etches in stone and escapes through estuaries. On the rapidly shifting shores of Inverloch, 150km south east of Melbourne, sandbanks stretc

Related Books & Audiobooks