The Independent

Freiburg travel guide: What to do and where to stay in Germany’s charming Black Forest city

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With medieval alleys suffused with dusky light and wisteria vines, car-free streets intersected by foot-wide canals and the surrounding Black Forest leaning into so much of its history, Freiburg is fertile ground for a stirring city break.

It’s one thing to visit a stock-in-trade German city with milestone cathedral, mosaicked squares and hazily nostalgic beer gardens. It’s quite another to visit one that has a thriving wine culture, a carousel of trams and funicular to ride, and eco-consciousness hardwired into its brain. This is Freiburg, and if there was ever a time to visit it is now: it’s having a moment.

In winter, this university city hits the travel jackpot, with snow-laden roofs, stalls and Christmas goodies galore, while summer ushers in lake swims and eye-candy

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