WE’VE TRIED TO cover the British industry’s output from 1945 to the mid-1990s. It’s not definitive, and it’s not a story of the British bike industry, and it’s not a buying guide. It’s just here as a brief insight into the many models made in the UK that may be of interest to our readers. We’ve grouped together models based on whether they used the same platforms and selected a small number of bikes for special treatment. Whether prices are rising or falling is always up for debate; auction prices are slightly down, but to more realistic levels, and private sales seem fairly static right now as sellers are reluctant to part with machines they have invested time and money in. Every buyer wants the best price and every seller the most money. As usual there are a few bargains to be had, and a few premium prices, with plenty in between, and exotica like Vincents and Broughs are hit harder than good reliable mid-priced classics.
Classic biking is still in a robust state. Whether you have been riding British classics for years or are just joining the fold, there is something for everyone. And it’s cheaper than golf. Buying a classic bike is easy, getting the right bike for you is more of a challenge. But if the classic bug has firmly bitten, there are a few things to consider before you decide which bike to go for.
Welcome to our world
If you are planning to cover decent miles, a classic can do that – it is what they were designed for. If you like attention, you’ll be surprised how much more interest you’ll get if you ride Velocette Valiant or a James Captain than you might on a spotless ‘68 T120 Bonneville. If you’re after a project to fill time and provide solace in the workshop, then you need to look at spares availability, and if you are wise, buy a project that’s as complete as possible. Research trim and cycle parts availability as those are the bits that are hardest to find. Popular models will usually have a supply of modern replacements, but these can be of variable quality.
Talking to people is key. Visit an established dealer rather than relying on internet pictures. Scour CBG’s small ads and make some phone calls. Go to a show, big or small, and chat to owners’ clubs. The Panther Club is very different to the Gold Star club, but you will find the same levels of enthusiasm. If you pick a marque rather than a bike, join the relevant owners’ club before you spend your money. This way, you can meet owners, check out their bikes and learn about the reality of life with your dream bike – and maybe even find the one you want. Good classics often change hands within clubs for much below the apparent market price. A few pounds on a membership fee could save hundreds, even thousands in the long run.
Follow bikes online, in auctions and from dealers, and visit autojumbles, which often throw up tempting unfinished projects. You must ask yourself why they are unfinished, and choose wisely. For example, look at a bike that seems okay apart from some cracked tyres, tarnished mudguards and iffy spokes and you need to budget at least £200 per wheel and another £300 for decent mudguards, depending on whether you can find new/old stock or if you’re happy with pattern parts. Paintwork is getting more and more expensive. Most quality paint shops will have a three-month waiting list, minimum. Whatever you think your restoration will cost, double it. At least.
Prices
Prices are whatever people think their bike is worth, or what they feel they can get for it. The prices in this
