more vividly than birthdays and anniversaries. Christmas is one of those. I can’t remember what I did on my birthday before last, but I know that our Christmas lunch in 2022 lasted seven hours, began with beetroot gravadlax and finished with Abi’s trifle from the cover of TASTE’s Christmas issue, which I customised with poached plums when I couldn’t track down strawberries, which are not in season. I won’t make that mistake again.
